Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Conditioning Hair Mask

Hair is a keratinized filamentous structure originating from hair follicles located in the dermis. It plays a vital role in protection, thermoregulation, and sensory perception. Composed primarily of keratin, hair consists of three structural layers: the cuticle (outer layer), the cortex (middle layer), and the medulla (core). These layers collectively contribute to hair's strength, texture, and overall appearance, making hair an important subject in cosmetic, biomedical, and forensic sciences. Hair also serves as a biological indicator, reflecting an individual’s health, environmental exposure, and treatment history. However, it is often subjected to various issues, such as dandruff, dryness, split ends, hair loss, and damage caused by heat or chemical treatments. To address these concerns, a wide range of hair care products—such as shampoos, conditioners, oils, serums, and hair masks—are used to maintain and restore hair health. Hair masks are among the most effective treatments, offering deep nourishment, hydration, and damage repair. In particular, herbal hair masks are gaining attention for their safety, efficacy, and natural composition. These masks incorporate Ayurvedic herbs, essential oils, and botanical extracts that support scalp health, reduce frizz, and improve hair texture and strength. Despite their benefits, herbal masks remain underutilized compared to synthetic alternatives.

This study focuses on the formulation, development, and evaluation of a natural herbal hair mask using Moringa, Flaxseed, and Rice water—ingredients known for their conditioning, anti-frizz, and strengthening properties. The aim is to optimize a safe, effective formulation that can nourish, hydrate, and repair hair. By integrating these ingredients into a single product, the research highlights the potential of herbal masks to address common hair issues while promoting sustainable and natural hair care practices.

2. MATERIALS AND METHODS-

2.1 Materials- Moringa obtained from local vegetable shop, Nashik. Flaxseeds obtained from Pariwar grocery shop, Nashik. Rice arranged from Local girnare farmer, Nasik. Triethanolamine, PVP K30, Methyl paraben, Glycerin, Polyrtheylene glycol 6000, Carbopol 934 are all arranged from pharmaceutics laboratory of MVPS college of pharmacy, Nashik.

Instruments- Weighing balance model Shimadzu AUX220, Heating mantle model Coslab India, Homogenizer model Remi RQ-127 A/D, pH meter Analab, Remi Hot plate, Brookfield viscometerDVE II, Biotechnics India sonicator.

2.2 METHODS-

2.2.1 Collection and Authentication of Materials

All the herbal ingredients used in the formulation were sourced from reliable and reputed suppliers. Moringa (Drumstick) was obtained from the local vegetable market, flaxseed extract was purchased from the Pariwar shop, and rice water was procured from a local Girnare farmer. Each ingredient was authenticated by evaluating its organoleptic features and standard physical characteristics.⁷

2.2.2 Extraction

1. Moringa pulp extraction-  Drumsticks were cleaned for any impurities and cut into small pieces. 100ml of distilled water was measured. Cut drumsticks added to the beaker containing water. It was heated at 40 ⁰C until concentrated extract obtained, After cooling it was strained using a cheese cloth.

 2. Flaxseed Gel Extraction-  Flaxseeds were cleaned for any impurities. 10 gm of flaxseeds were weighed. 100ml of   distilled water was measured. Flaxseed were added to the beaker containing water. It was heated at 70° for 30 mins. After cooling the flaxseed extract was strained using a cheese cloth.

3. Rice water-

Rice were cleaned. 5 gm of rice were weighed and triturate it . Add it into 10 ml water and keep it for 24 hr for soaked and filter it. This rice water was used for formulation.

Flaxseed extract

Moringa pulp

Muslin cloth filtration

Rice water

2.2.3 Formulation of hair mask:

1. Preparation of Gel Base: Weighed quantities of triethanolamine, PVP, methylparaben, glycerin at predetermined amounts, as specified by the experimental design, polyethylene glycol, and distilled water were gathered .The mixture was stirred at 20 rpm using a mechanical stirrer to ensure uniform blending.

2. Preparation of Carbopol 934 Solution: Carbopol 934 (2% concentration) was soaked in water for 24 hours to hydrate and dissolve.After soaking, the hydrated Carbopol 934 was re-weighed for accurate measurement.

3. Incorporation of Active Drug Constituent:

The (Moringa pulp, Flaxseed extract, Rice water) were added at predetermined amounts, as specified by the experimental design to the stirred gel base mixture. The mixture was continuously stirred at 20 rpm to achieve homogeneity.

4. Final Mixing and Homogenization:

Once the gel base was fully incorporated with the active drug constituents, Carbopol 934 was added slowly to the mixture. Continuous stirring at 20 rpm ensured thorough dispersion and homogenization of Carbopol 934 within each formulation.

3. Formulation table- Based on the result of preliminary formulations. The experiment was designed using the Design Expert software (Design Expert 13.0 stat-ease).  Box- behnken design was applied in the present study.  In this design 3 factors were evaluated, each at 3 level, and experiment trials were performed at all possible combinations. The amount of moringa pulp, rice water and glyerin were selected as a independent variables.

Table 3- Formulation table

4.1 Physical appearance-

Appearance and Texture of formulated hair mask were studied.

4.2  pH-

After the preparations of different hair gel formulations its pH was determined.1gm of hair gel was dissolved in 100ml of distilled water and kept for 2 hrs. after 2hrs pH was noted. The pH was determined 2 times for each herbal hair gel formulation.¹

4.3 Viscosity-

Viscosity of the formulation is determined by Brookfield Viscometer at 100 rpm, room temperature (25 ± 2°C), using spindle no.64.⁶ Viscosity values are expressed in centipoise(cp).

4.4  Washability-

Washability of hair mask was tested by applying it on dorsal surface of left hand and held under running water to observe.⁷

 4.5 Homogeneity-

A clean, dry object glass was coated with the herbal hair mask, and visual examination under light was conducted to assess its homogeneity and the presence of coarse particles. The sample was evaluated for lumps, flocculates, or aggregates to determine its uniformity.⁶

4.6 Spreadability- (Spreadability apparatus)  5 gm hair mask was positioned on the underside of the block, followed by the placement of the upper movable slide on to the hair mask. The time taken for the upper slide to separate 5 cm from the assembly was then recorded.²

Spreadability= m×l/t

m= weight attached to the upper slide

l= Distance travelled by upper slide

t= Time taken to separate slide

4.7 Solid content-

A clean, dry evaporating dish was weighed, along with 4 grams of hair mask added to it. Once the liquid JCLMM 2/11 (2023) |994–1006 portion of the hair mask was evaporated, the right weight of the hair mask was determined and the evaporating dish with hair mask was placed on the recent plate. After drying, the weight of the hair mask (solids content) was precisely determined.²

1. Evaporating dish-weight
2. add 4 gm hair mask in to dish
3. allow to liquid evaporate
4. measured dry weight of sample 

Solid content (%) = Weight of dry sample/ Weight of wet sample × 100

4.8 Irritancy test-

The Skin irritation test was evaluated using the patch test method. A small amount the optimized formulation was applied to the hair and scalp and left for 48 hours. The scalp was checked for any signs of irritation and inflammation.²

  4.9 Conditioning effect-

 4.9.1 Optical microscopy-

 Optical microscopy of hair is a simple, non-destructive method used to examine hair structure and surface features such as the cuticle, medulla, and signs of damage. It helps identify differences in hair type, origin, and treatment effects like dyeing or heat exposure. Commonly used in forensic, cosmetic, and dermatological studies, this technique provides useful visual details using bright-field or specialized light techniques. Though limited in resolution, it is efficient and cost-effective for routine hair analysis.

4.9.2 Evaluation of hair mask conditioning performance via blind touch test-

A segment of hair collected from volunteer, was divided into three sections approximately 10 cm long. One section, which was not washed, served as the control. The other two sections were washed with hair mask following the same procedure. In each cycle, each section was shaken with a mixture of 10 grams of hair mask sample and 10 ml of water in a conical flask for 2 minutes, then rinsed with water. After washing, the hair was air-dried at room temperature. The washing process was repeated up to a maximum of five cycles for one week. The conditioning effectiveness—such as smoothness and softness—of the hair mask was assessed by 10 volunteers through a blind touch test. The volunteers, blindfolded, were asked to touch the hair samples labeled with random codes. One sample was the untreated control, while the other two had been treated with the shampoos. They rated the conditioning performance on a scale from 1 to 4, where 1 indicated poor, 2 satisfactory, 3 good, and 4 excellent.⁵

Table 4

5. RESULT AND DISCUSSION

Phytochemical analysis of Flaxseed-

Table 5- Phytochemical analysis of flaxseed

Phytochemical analysis of Moringa pulp-

Table 6- Moringa pulp

Table 7- Rice water

5.1 Physical appearance-

5.2 pH-

Formulation without herbal ingredients-6.58

The pH of all batches of the herbal hair oil mask ranged between 5.5 and 6.8, falling within the mildly acidic to near-neutral range. This pH range was suitable for scalp application, reducing the risk of irritation and preserving the scalp's natural acid mantle.

5.3 Viscosity-

The viscosity of batch 12 was found to be 15420 Cp.

The viscosity test evaluates the resistance of the herbal hair mask to flow, which directly influences application, retention, and spreadability. A higher value indicates a thicker formulation. An ideal viscosity ensures the product is neither too runny nor too thick, supporting ease of use and effective scalp coverage.

5.4 Washability

The washability of all batches of the herbal hair mask was assessed to determine the ease of removal from hair and scalp application. Results indicated that all batches were easily washable with water. This attribute is significant for user convenience, particularly for individuals with busy schedules or sensitive scalps. Viscosity was measured using a Brookfield viscometer at room temperature (25 ± 2°C), with values expressed in poise; higher values denoted a thicker formulation. An optimal viscosity was maintained to ensure the product was neither excessively runny nor overly viscous, facilitating ease of application and uniform scalp coverage. The formulation contained emulsifiers that promoted efficient cleansing while maintaining conditioning effects.

5.5 Homogeneity-

Visual examination of the hair mask confirmed good homogeneity, with no lumps, flocculates, or aggregates observed.

5.6 Spreadability-

5.7 Solid content-