Arunai college of pharmacy, Tiruvannamalai.
Skin aging is the results of a continual deterioration process damage to cellular DNA and protein .the main aim of our study is to develop a polyherbal anti-aging cream. We have used herbal ingredients in our preparation which are butterfly pea flowers, aloe Vera gel, tulsi leaves, turmeric oil. This indicates the presence of anthocyanins, butterfly pea contains anthocyanin which are natural anti-oxidant that slow down the aging process, tulsi leaves are used as an anti-bacterial and skin luminous, Aloe Vera gel used as a moisturizer and turmeric oil are used to brighten dark circle and reduce acne. These are some of the basic drugs used to formulate the cream. In quality evaluation of formulation[f1-f5] were done on different parameters like PH,viscosity, spreadability and phase separation.F3 is better formulation than all other formulation. there were no change in physical properties of anti-aging cream. The formulation showed good spreadability,no phase separation and good consistency. It is found that viscosity of the cream is adequate. Thus, polyherbal cosmetics formulation is safe to use was stable at room temperature and can be safely used on the skin.
Cosmetics
Topical Drug Delivery
Physiology Of Human Skin
The skin composed of three layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and subcutaneous tissue
The outermost level, the epidermis, consists of a selected constellation of cells called keratinocytes, that perform to synthesize albuminoid, along, threadlike supermolecule with a protecting role.
Types Of Skin Layer
Definition: The outermost layer of thskin that provides a barrier and protects against environmental damage.
Structure: Composed primarily of keratinized stratified squamous epithelium.
Cell Types:
Layers of the epidermis (from outer to inner)
Stratum Basale (Basal Layer):
Location: The deepest layer of the epidermis.
Structure: A single row of cuboidal to columnar cells
Location: Just above the stratum basale.
Structure: 8-10 layers of keratinocytes connected by desmosomes (protein structures).
Location: Middle layer of the epidermis.
Structure: 3-5 layers of flattened keratinocytes containing.
Location: Found only in thick skin (palms, soles, fingertips).
Structure: Thin, transparent layer of dead keratinocytes filled with eleidin, tightens the connection between the cells, facilitating the protective and water-repellent function of the skin a precursor to keratin.
Location: Outermost layer of the epidermis.
Structure: 15-30 layers of dead, flat keratinized cells (corneocytes) embedded in a lipid matrix.
Definition: The middle layer of skin beneath the epidermis. The dermis includes the majority of the skin and provides its pliability, elasticity, and strength. It protects the body from mechanical injury, binds water, aids in thermal regulation, and includes receptors of sensory stimuli, providing structural support and nourishment.
Structure: Made of dense irregular connective tissue, mainly collagen and elastin fibers.
Collagen and elastin are proteins that work together to provide structure, strength, and flexibility to the skin
Both collagen and elastin are produced by fibroblasts and are found in the dermis, a connective tissue layer deep in the epidermis. The amount and quality of collagen and elastin fibers decreases with age, which can lead to wrinkling.
Divisions:
Cells: Fibroblasts, mast cells, macrophages.
Definition: The hypodermis, also known as the subcutaneous tissue or superficial fascia, is the deepest layer of the skin, located beneath the dermis and above the underlying muscles and bones.
Structure: Composed of loose connective tissue and adipose tissue.
Components:
Fat: The subcutaneous layer consists mainly of fat. The fat forms a layer that insulates the body from cold and helps absorb shock and damage to the internal organs. It also provides structural support for skin.
Blood Vessels: Facilitate circulation.
Nerves: Contribute to sensation.
FUNCTIONS OF SKIN
Skin performs the following functions:
Cream
Ideal Properties
Advantages Of Cream
Disadvantages Of Cream
Classification Of Creams
According to the nature or type of emulsion
According to purpose/function
?Moisturizing Creams: Hydrate and protect the skin, especially for dryness.
?Medicated Creams: Contain active pharmaceutical ingredients (e.g., clotrimazole cream for fungal infections).
Anti-aging Creams: Combat wrinkles and signs of aging using retinoids or peptides.
Foundation creams: These cream serve as a foundation base for make-up. It acts as an adherent base for application of make-up powders. They provide emollient action and a protective action against environment to the skin which is neither too greasy nor too dry. It is multicoloured make up applied on the face to create an even, uniform colour similar to the complexion, to cover flaws and to change the skin tones.
Night cream or massage creams: These creams are ainly used for the nourishing the skin or as a treatment to dry skin. Creams which are generally applied on skin and left for few or several hours over night are mainly known as night creams. Creams which acts as an emollient by rubbing the cream on the skin with massage is known as massage cream.
Hand and body creams: We tend to wash our hand several times a day, stripping off moisture. Applying cream softens and protects the skin and it keeps the skin looks younger. Since the skin on our palms and fingers needs oil to stay supple and to prevent it from chapping and cracking.
According to Ingredients
According to characteristics properties
Vanishing creams: Vanishing cream gets the name from the fact that it leaves no trace when rubbed into the skin. These are oil in water emulsion that contains large percentage of water and stearic acid or other oleaginous components. After application, the continuous phase evaporates, leaving behind a thin residue film of the stearic acid. Because of this reason, these are used particularly in hot climates which cause perspiration on the skin.
Cold cream: It is an emulsion of water in oil type. Used as moisturizer, makeup remover and cleanser. The main principle of this involves the slow evaporation of water phase which leads to cooling sensation. Borax and beeswax are used as a emulsifying agents.17-19.
General Ingredients Used in Skin Creams
Method Of Preparation
Preparation of o/w emulsion cream:
The oil soluble components and the emulsifier are taken in one beaker and melted in a water bath at 75°C.
Other beaker water, preservatives and water-soluble components are taken and melted at 75°C.
After heating water phase are taken in mortar and pestle and slowly oil phase was added and triturated till clicking sound was heard.
Finally, when the temperature cools down, perfuming agents and/or preservatives are added. In this preparation, water content will be more than the oil.
Preparation of W/O Emulsion Creams:
The oil soluble components and the emulsifier are taken in one beaker and melted at 75°C.
Another beaker water and water soluble components are taken and melted at 75°C.
After melting, the oil phase was taken in a mortar and pestle and slowly the water phase was added and triturated till clicking sound was heard.
And when the temperature of the cream will get cooled, then the perfuming agent are added. In this preparation, water phase will be less and oil phase will be more.20-27.
Application
Aging
Causes Of Skin AgingIntrinsic Aging (Natural Aging)
Extrinsic Aging (Environmental Factors)
Nutritional Deficiencies: Lack of essential nutrients (e.g., vitamins A, C, and E) impairs skin repair and protection.
Hormonal Changes: Declining estrogen levels during menopause reduce collagen and skin thickness.
Stress And Sleep Deprivation: Chronic stress and lack of sleep increase cortisol levels, which accelerates collagen breakdown and leads to dull, aged skin.
Dehydration: Lack of hydration reduces skin plumpness, causing fine lines and sagging.
Mechanism Of Aging
Anti-aging agents are those substances that help in slowing down the effects of aging on your skin and body. They can be natural or synthetic, and they work by different mechanisms, such as protecting against cellular damage, boosting collagen production, enhancing hydration, or stimulating cellular renewal.
Some examples of anti-aging agents are:
Common Name |
Part used |
Chemical Constituents |
Uses |
Neem |
Leaves of Azadirachta indica |
Nimbidin,Nimbidal,Nimbin, Limonoids |
Antioxidant, Antiseptic, Antiageing,Treatsacne |
Aloevera |
Leavesof Aloebarbadensis |
SalicylicAcid, Aloesin, AloeresinA, AloeresinE, IsoaloeresinD |
Antioxidant,Cleansing, Moisturising, Soothing. |
Amla |
Fruits of Emblicaofficinalis |
AscorbicAcid, GallicAcid, EmblicaninA, Emblicanin B |
Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-ageing, Antimicrobial. |
Cucumber |
Fruits of CucumussativusL. |
CucurbitacinD, VitaminC, Folicacid |
Antioxidant, Antimicrobial,Cooling, Soothing. |
Turmeric |
Dried rhizomesof Curcumalonga |
CurcuminD and curcuminoids |
Antioxidant, Antiaging, Moisturizing, Antimicrobial, Treatsacne. |
Tulsi |
Leaves of OcimumsanctumLinn |
Oleanolic Acid, Ursolic Acid, Linalool, Rosmarinic Acid |
Antimicrobial, Antifungal, Antibacterial, Antioxidant. Anti-aging |
Clove |
Dried flower buds of Eugenia Caryophyllus |
Eugenol, Eugenolacetate, Caryophyllene |
Antioxidant, Antimicrobial,Antifungal, Anti-Inflammatory. |
Ginseng |
Dried root of Panax ginseng |
Ginsenosides, Panaxosides, Chikusetusaponin |
Anti-oxidant |
Arjuna |
Dried stem bark of Terminalia arjuna |
Arjunine, Arjunolone, and Ellagic acid |
Increase production of collagen, Improves skin hydration |
Apple |
Fresh fruit of Malus domestica |
Anthocyanin, rutin, epicatechin, catechin |
Anti-aging |
Drug Profile:
Butterfly pea
Synonyms: Butterflypea, Bluebellvine,
Asian pigeonwings, Blue pea ,Telang flowers
Clitoria albiflora Mattei, Clitoria bracteata Poir, Clitoria zanzibarensis Vatke
Biological sources: Its is obtained from dried flowers or fresh flowers, leaves of Clitoria ternatea.
Phytoconstituents: It contains tannins, phlobatannin, carbohydrates, saponins, triterpenoids, phenols, flavanoids, flavonol glycosides, proteins, alkaloids, antharaquinone, antocyanins, cardiac glycosides, stigmast-4-ene-3,6-dione,volatile oils and steroids.
Taxonomic Classification:
Kingdom: Plantae;
Subkingdom: Viridiplantae;
Infrakingdom: Streptophyta;
Division: Tracheophyta;
Subdivision: Spermatophytina;
Infradivision: Angiospermae:
Class: Magnoliopsida:
Superorder: Rosanae;
Order: Fabales;
Family: Fabaceae;
Genus: Clitoria L.;
Species: Clitoria ternatea
Medicinal Uses:
Tulsi:
Synonyms: Holy basil, Tulasi
Biological Source:It is obtained from fresh and dried leaves of Ocimum species like Ocimum sanctum L. and Ocimum basilicum L.
Family: Lamiaceae
Phytoconstituents: Its contain volatile oils (eugenol 70-80%,beta caryophyllene, linalool,methy eugenol), phenolic compounds (rosmarinic acid,ursolic acid, oleanolic acid,caffeic acid),flavonoids, terpenoids, glycosides, alkaloids.
Medicinal Use :
1. Tulsi helps to cure fever.
2. It helps to cure skin problems like blackheads, premature aging, acne, etc.
3. Tulsi used to treat heart disease.
4. It prevents blackheads.
5. It prevents skin from acne.
Aloe-Vera:
Synonyms: Ghritkumari,Musabbar
Biological Source: It is obtained from Dried juice of leaves of Aloe species.
Aloe barbadensis (curacao aloe)
Aloe ferox(cape aloe)
Aloe perryl(socotrine aloe)
Aloe spicata(cape aloe)
Family: Asphodelaceae
Phytoconstituents: Aloe vera contains amino acids like leucine, isoleucine, saponin glycosides provide cleansing action, vitamins A,C,E,B,B12 , and folic acid.
Medicinal Uses:
1. Used as anti-microbial.
2. Use to cure skin injuries.
3. Use as an anti-inflammatory.
4. Helps to soothe and sunburn.
5. Helps to moisturize the skin.
6. Lightens blemishes on the skin.ch Through Innovation
Turmeric oil:
Synonyms: Curcuma, Curcuma aromatic,Curcumine
Biological Source: Turmeric is obtained from a rhizomatous of Curcuma longa
Family: Zingiberaceae
Phytoconstituents:
Its contains volatile oils (turmerone 50-60%), curcuminoids (curcumin 2-5%, demethoxycurcumin, 5methoxycurcumin), flavonoids (quercetin),phenolic compounds(ferulic acid ,cinnamic acid, vanillic acid),terpenoids, glycosides.
Medicinal Use:
1. Use to treat disorders of the skin.
2. Use to treat respiratory tract infection..
3. Use treat problems in the digestive system.
4. Use as an antiseptic.
5. It helps to heal acne.
6. Prevents premature aging.
7. Lightens hyperpigmentation.
Rose Oil:
Synonyms:Attar, Athar, rose otto
Biological Source: It is obtained from a petals of different Rosa species especially Rosa centifolia L. and Rosa damascena Mill.
Family: Rosaceae
Phytoconstituents: The oil are citronellol (34-55%), geraniol, nerol, paraffin, polyethyl alcohol, rose oxide, eugenol.
Medicinal Uses:
1. It is used as an essence.
2. It is used to nourish skin.
Aim
To Formulation and evaluation of polyherbal anti-aging cream from the extract of butterly pea flowers.
Objective
To prepare herbal cream from the extract of butterfly pea flowers. To perform the evaluation test for the suitable formulation.
1. Physical evaluation
2. Irritancy test
3. Washability test
4. PH Test
5. Centrifugation or phase separation
Plan Of Work
Collect the flower
?
Dry the flower
?
Grinding of flowers
?
Extraction of flower
?
Prepare the herbal cream
?
Evaluate the herbal cream
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Plants Collection:
The butterfly pea flowers, fresh aloe vera leaves and Tulsi leaves were collected from the inner campus of arunai groups of institution.
Product Ingredents & Uses:
Si. No |
Ingredients |
Properties |
1 |
Butterfly pea flower extract |
Antioxidants, Provide Anti-aging effect |
2 |
Tulsi leaves extract |
Antibacterial skin –luminous, |
3 |
Aloe vera gel |
Moisturizer, reduce acne |
4 |
Turmeric oil |
Heal wounds, Treat eczema & psoriasis |
5 |
Bees wax |
Emulsifying agent, stabilizer, thickness of cream |
6 |
Liquid paraffin |
Lubricating agent |
7 |
Borax |
Cleansing, emulsifying agent |
8 |
Methy paraben |
Preservative |
9 |
Rose water |
Fragrance |
10 |
Distilled water |
Vehicle |
Extraction Procedure:
Butterfly Pea (Telang) Flower Extraction
Fresh telang flower are cut with a size of 1cm and mashed with blender
?
Macerated with distilled water (1:5) for 15 minutes
?
And then stirring with a magnetic stirrer at 25? c.
?
Then filtered and obtained liquid extracts of telang flowers.
Aloe Vera Extraction
The fresh leaves were collected and washed with distilled water.
?
Sterile knife was used to cut the leaf outlet lengthwise.
?
The colorless parenchymatous tissue of the aloe vera plant was removed using a sterile knife.
?
The fibers and impurities are then removed with a cloth of muslin.
?
A filtrate or the filter product, which is a transparent aloe vera gel was then used in the preparation.
Tulsi Extraction
Tulsi leaves were collected and washed with distilled water
?
And dried with hot air oven
?
The leaves were then powdered after a proper drying.
?
In a volumetric flask, 1g tulsi leaf powder plus 10 ml ethanol was taken
?
Then the solution was heated on water bath at filtered the solution using filter paper.
?
Clear extract of tulsi leaves was used in this preparation
Chemical Tests:
Test For Phenolic Compounds And Tannins
Fecl3 test:
The alcoholic extract was taken in test tube and add 1?Fecl3 solution,formation of milky white colour after addition of fecl3 indicates the presence of tannins and phenols.
Confirmatory Test for Anthocyanin:
The confirmatory test for anthocyanin was performed using standard procedures sulphuric acid test. 1ml of concentrated H2SO4 was added to 2ml of extract.the presence of anthocyanin would be indicated by orange coloration of the interface.
Sodium Hydroxide Test:
2 drops of 1N NaOH was addedto 2ml of extract. The presence of anthocyanin would be indicated by blue to bluish green colouration.
Test For Steroid:
Take 2ml of test extract and add 2ml of chloroform and add 2ml of conc. Sulphuric acid,shake well the mixture, chloroform layer appears as red and acid layer will show greenish yellow colour.
Cream Formulation
The herbs used in the preparation of herbal cream was authenticated by the Department of crop and herbal physiology. The plant material was dried , powder and sieved and stored in a well closed container for further studies.
Method Of Formulation:
Cream are viscous semisolid formulation of w\o emulsion
Procedure:
Oil phase
Heat liquid paraffin and beeswax in a borosilicate glass beaker at 70 ? c.
Aqueous phase
Another beaker ,dissolve borax, methyl paraben in distilled water and heat 75 ?c
Aqueous phase was added to oil phase
Then add a measured amount of drug extract , Aloe vera gel ,Turmeric oil, Tulsi extract and stir continuously until it forms a smooth cream
Then added a rose oil as a fragrance
Add few drops of distilled water if necessary and mix the cream in order to give a smooth texture to the cream and to mix all ingredients properly.
Formulation Table:
Table:1
SI.NO
|
Ingredients
|
Composition Of Formulations |
||||
F1 |
F2 |
F3 |
F4 |
F5 |
||
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. |
Butterfly pea flower extract Tulsi leaves extract Aloe vera gel Turmeric oil Bees wax Liquid paraffin Borax Methyl paraben Rose water Distilled water |
0.8ml
1.2ml 1.5ml 0.5ml 3.1gm 10ml 0.1gm 0.001gm 2 drops q. s |
0.9ml
1.4ml 1.3ml 0.4ml 3.2gm 11ml 0.2gm 0.002gm 2 drops q.s |
1ml
1.5ml 1ml 0.2ml 3.5gm 12ml 0.1gm 0.003gm 2 drops q.s |
1.2ml
1.3ml 1ml 0.3ml 3.8gm 13ml 0.3gm 0.004gm 2 drops q.s |
1.25ml
1.4ml 1ml 0.1ml 3.9gm 14ml 0.5gm 0.005gm 2 drops q.s |
Evaluation Of Herbal Cream:
1.Physical Properties:
The Cream was observed for color, odour and appearance.
2.Homogenecity:
All developed creams were tested for homogenecity by visual inspection after the creams have been set in the container. They were tested for their presence of any aggregates and physical contact.
3.PH Of the Cream:
PH meter is used to measure the ph of solution made by dissolving the cream in water. Calibrate the ph meter using standard buffer solution.0.5gram of cream was taken and dispersed in 50 ml of distilled water and then PH was measured by using digital PH meter.
4.Viscosity:
Viscosity of the creams was determined by using Brookfield viscometer. 100g of the cream was taken in a beaker and the spindle was dipped in it for about 5 minutes and then the reading was taken.
5. Spreadability:
The spreadability was expressed in terms of time in seconds taken by two slides to slip off from the cream, placed in between the slides, under certain load. Lesser the time taken for separation of the two slides better the spreadability. Two sets of glass slides of standard dimension were taken. Then one slide of suitable dimension was taken and the cream formulation was placed on that slide. Then other slider was placed on the top of the formulation. Then a weight or certain load was placed on the upper slide so that the cream between the two slides was pressed uniformly to form a thin layer. Then the weight was removed and excess of formulation adhering to the slides was scrapped off. The upper slide was allowed to slip off freely by the force of weight tied to it. The time taken by the upper slide to slip off was noted.
SPREADABILITY=m×l÷t
Where,
m=Standard weight ,which is tied to or placed over the upper slide.(30g)
l=Length of a glass slide(7.5cm)
t=Time taken in seconds.
6.Type Of Emulsion Test:
Dilution test was conducted to determine the type of emulsion formed . in this method,to find out the oil in water emulsion,it was diluted with aqueous solvent,whereas to find out the water in oil emulsion,it was diluted with oily liquid.
7.Phase Seperation:
Prepared cream was kept in a closed container at room temperature away from light.then phase seperation was checked for 24 hours for 30 days. Any change in the phase seperation was observed.
8.Washability:
Washability test was carried out by applying a small amount of cream on the hand and then washing it with tap water.
9. Accelerated Stability Studies:
Accelerated stability studies was performed on all the formulations by maintaining at room temperature for 30days with constant time interval During the stability studies the parameters like homogenicity ,physical properties ,viscosity and ph are studied.
RESULT:
Table:2
Physical properties |
Formulation 1 |
Formulation 2 |
Formulation 3 |
Formulation 4 |
Formulation 5 |
Appearance |
Good |
Good |
Excellent |
Good |
Good |
Colour |
Pale green |
Pale green |
Pale green |
Pale green |
Pale green |
Odour |
Characteristics |
characteristics |
characteristics |
characteristics |
Characteristics |
State |
Semi-solid and dry |
Semi-solid and dry |
Semi-solid |
Semi-solid and oily |
Semi-solid and oily |
Table:3
TEST |
F1 |
F2 |
F3 |
F4 |
F5 |
Homogenicity |
Little roughness |
Little roughness |
No roughness |
No roughness |
No roughness |
Table:4
Test |
F1 |
F2 |
F3 |
F4 |
F5 |
PH |
5.06 |
5.79 |
5.87 |
5.88 |
5.73 |
According to the results. The ph of all the formulation are within the range of 5 to 6.
This is suitable for face.
Table:5
Test |
F1 |
F2 |
F3 |
F4 |
f5 |
Viscosity |
1350 |
1560 |
1720 |
1600 |
1650 |
5.Spreadability:
Table:6
S.No
|
Formulation
|
Time(Sec)
|
Spreadability(G×Cm/Sec) |
1 |
1 |
6.81 sec |
33 g×cm/sec |
2 |
2 |
5.00 sec |
45g× cm/sec |
3 |
3 |
8.00sec |
28g× cm/sec |
4 |
4 |
|
58g× cm/sec |
5 |
5 |
4.70sec |
47.8g× cm/sec
|
Table:7
Test |
F1 |
F2 |
F3 |
F4 |
F5 |
Type of emulsion |
Water in oil emulsion |
Water in oil emulsion |
Water in oil emulsion |
Water in oil emulsion |
Water in oil emulsion |
The five formulation was found to be water in oil emulsion.
7.Phase Separation:
Table:8
Test |
F1 |
F2 |
F3 |
F4 |
F5 |
Phase separation |
No phase separation |
No phase separation |
No phase separation |
No phase separation |
No phase separation |
Prepared cream was kept in a closed container at room temperature, away from light.then phase seperation was checked.
Table:9
Test |
F1 |
F2 |
F3 |
F4 |
F5 |
Washability |
Easily washed with water |
Easily washed with water |
Easily washed with water |
Not Easily washable |
Not Easily washable |
Table:10
TEST |
Formulation 1 |
Formulation 2 |
Formulation 3 |
Formulation 4 |
Formulation 5 |
Accelerated stability studies |
Stable |
Stable |
Stable |
Not stable |
Not stable |
CONCLUSION:
Due to constant exposure of human skin to the UV radiations present in sunlight causes several pathobiological alterations in cells occur such as increased wrinkling, irregular pigmentation, loss of elasticity and roughness, dryness. For the protection of this symptom of aging herbal cosmetic are used as a therapy. Various active constituents such as phenolic acids and flavonoids appear efficient against UV radiation-induced damage the evaluation test reveals that the formulated anti-aging cream from Clitoria Ternatea, tulsi and aloe vera extract showed that it is safe to be used in the skin to protect from intrinsic and extrinsic aging. In experiments (F1 –F5), different batches of polyherbal anti aging cream were created using clitoria ternatea, tulsi, turmeric and aloe ver among other plants and components. Based on physical properties, homogenicity pH , viscosity, spreadability, type of emulsion, washability, accelerated stability studies as well as the fact that it meets all the criteria needed for a high –quality cream,F3 was chosen as the best formulation out of all of the others.
From this study, it is concluded that it is possible to develop anti-aging cream containing flower extract of Clitoria Ternatea and leaf extract of tulsi and aloe vera and it will help in reducing oxidative damage and give the antioxidant effect to our skin.
REFERENCES
Isha Kanoj*, Sonal Jadhav, Yashpal More, Recent Trends on Formulation Approaches for The Treatment of Periodontitis, Int. J. of Pharm. Sci., 2025, Vol 3, Issue 1, 2570-2591. https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.14777956