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  • Recent evolutions in development of Antiaging Cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals: A Review
  • Research Scholar, Sandip Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Nashik, Maharashtra, India. 

Abstract

Background: Anti-aging formulations in the pharmaceutical industry represent a burgeoning field aimed at addressing the physiological changes associated with aging. This abstract explores the key aspects of these formulations, emphasizing their significance in promoting healthier aging. These formulations typically incorporate a myriad of compounds, including antioxidants, peptides, and retinoid, known for their potential to counteract oxidative stress and stimulate collagen production. The abstract delves into the rationale behind these choices, elucidating their mechanisms of action and synergistic effects. Moreover, the abstract highlights the innovative delivery systems employed to enhance the efficacy of anti-aging formulations, such as nanoparticle encapsulation and transdermal patches. The discussion encompasses how these advancements contribute to improved bioavailability and sustained release, optimizing therapeutic outcomes. It also touches upon the regulatory landscape governing anti-aging pharmaceuticals, underscoring the need for rigorous testing to ensure safety and efficacy. It addresses ongoing research endeavors, including the exploration of novel bioactive compounds and personalized approaches based on genetic factors. Conclusion: In conclusion, the abstract synthesizes the current landscape of anti-aging formulations in the pharmaceutical industry, emphasizing their multifaceted approach to mitigating the effects of aging. The integration of cutting-edge technologies and a deeper understanding of aging processes position these formulations as promising interventions in promoting longevity and maintaining overall well-being.

Keywords

Anti-aging, Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), Compound Annual Growth Rate (CGAR).

Introduction

The three layers of the skin namely epidermis, dermis, hypodermis; form an effective barrier to the external environment, allow the transmission of sensory information, and serve a significant role in maintaining homeostasis. The dynamic epidermis continually produces a protective outer layer of corneocytes as cells undergo the process of keratinization and thermal differentiation. Collagen and elastic filaments of the dermal layer provide the underlying tensile strength of the skin, whereas the layer of subcutaneous fat provides a store of energy for the body [1].   Exogenous or extrinsic and endogenous or intrinsic elements work together to influence the complicated biological process of skin aging. Since the appearance and condition of the skin are seen to be key indicators of a person's general "well-being" and sense of their own health, several anti-aging techniques have been developed in recent years [2]. Between 2022 and 2027, the global anti-aging market is projected to expand at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of about 6.7%. The market is expected to grow from its estimated 63 billion US dollars in 2021 to 93 billion US dollars by 2027 [34].

Aging:

       
            table 1.png
       

Classic skin aging theories:

  • Free radical and oxidative stress theory
  • Inflammation theory
  • Photoaging theory
  • Non-enzymatic glycosyl theory [3]

Free Radical and Oxidative Stress Theory:

In 1956, Denham Harman discovered that Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) stockpile over the period of time further contributing to aging [4]. After research of 16 years, Harman himself explained mitochondria as an actual base of ROS being the basis for free radical aging concept [5].

Inflammation Theory:

Many Senescence Associated Secretory Phenotypes (SASP) are secreted by senescent fibroblasts and keratinocytes at the skin's surface, such as MMPs, IL-1, IL-6, TNF-?, and other proinflammatory cytokines. By encouraging the generation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) and triggering the ATM (Ataxia Telangiectasia Mutated)/p53/p21-signaling pathway, these pro-inflammatory cytokines cause the senescence of skin cells [6]. Simultaneously, as skin cells become inflammatory, this will trigger a greater production of MMPs, which will break down collagen and cause the skin cells to relax and wrinkle [7], [8].

Photoaging Theory:

The increase exposure to the ultraviolet radiations results in the increased production of the ROS and high MMPs levels. Henceforth, leading to pigmentation and wrinkles on skin [9].

Non-Enzymatic Glycosyl Theory:

The non-enzymatic reaction between the free reducing sugar moieties and free amino groups of proteins, DNA and lipids produces Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs) which is irreversible Maillard reaction. Further accumulation of AGEs causes imbalanced cellular homeostasis and protein morphism resulting in darkening of skin and aging [10][11][12].

METHODOLOGY:

       
            Marketed antiaging formulations with brand name & ingredients..png
       

Table 1: Marketed antiaging formulations with brand name & ingredients.

The above mentioned as some of the marketed formulations used widely for their efficient and safe results. Natural, semisynthetic as well as synthetic anti-aging products are used by the population. Water, retinol, vitamin-C, vitamin-E, vitamin-A, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and collagen boosters are predominantly used as constituents for the preparation purpose.

       
            Research articles with results conclusion.png
       

Table 2: Research articles with results/conclusion.

 

RESULT:  

It can be concluded that the extrinsic factors affect the aging of skin mostly like smoking, UV exposure for a long time, environmental changes, pollution mostly and rarely intrinsic factors affect the same except if any genetic variation is present. Extrinsic skin aging is controlled by use of pharmaceutical anti-aging formulations on a large scale. It is anticipated that between 2022 and 2027, the global anti-aging market will expand at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of roughly 6.7%. It is estimated that the market will grow from its 2021 size of about 63 billion US dollars to 93 billion US dollars by 2027.  The several ingredients used substantially are, retinol, vitamin-C, vitamin-E, vitamin-A, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, collagen boosters and water which gives significant efficacy to reduce wrinkles, fine lines, dull & dark skin, pigmentation on the skin superficially as well helps the skin get nourished intrinsically. Shoulder-to-shoulder novel technologies have been found recently. Those are nanocream delivery system technology is innovated in Cannola oil anti-aging preparation, injectable skin rejuvenation and dermal fillers, Autologous Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP); Hormone Replacement Therapy (HRT), ginsenosides; major active chemical constituent of ginseng of which topical application induces HAS-2 gene expression aiding to increase level of hyaluronic acid, GH/IGF?1 axis inhibition method & MMP-2 inhibition method.

CONCLUSION:

Anti-aging formulations are extensively in trend now-a-days due to the increase in skin difficulties like pigmentation, dark patches, UV radiations exposure, dry & dull skin, vitamin-C deficiency, vitamin-E deficiency. Meanwhile, herbal plants are transferred into anti-aging dosage forms as the side effects will be least with natural benefits to the skin health with long term aids.

REFERENCE

  1. Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin, Paul A.J. Kolarsick, BS Maria Ann Kolarsick, MSN, ARNP-C, and Carolyn Goodwin, APRN-BC, FNP; Page No, 1–11.
  2. Ruta Ganceviciene,1, † Aikaterini i. Liakou,2, † Athanasios Theodoridis,2, † Evgenia Makrantonaki2 and Christos C. Zouboulis2, Skin anti-aging strategies, Dermato-endocrinology 4:3, July–December 2012, 308–319.
  3. Research progress on skin aging and active ingredients, MDPI, Molecules 2023.
  4. Harman, D. Aging—A theory based on free-radical and radiation-chemistry. J. Gerontol. 1956, 11, 298–300
  5. Harman D. The biologic clock: The mitochondria? J. Am. Geriatr. Soc. 1972; 20:145–147.
  6. Schumacher, B.; Pothof, J.; Vijg, J.; Hoeijmakers, J.H.J. The central role of DNA damage in the ageing process. Nature 2021, 592, 695–703. [CrossRef] [PubMed]
  7. Fen, Z.J.; Chun, L.; Wei, L. Research progress on matrix metalloproteinases inhibitors in anti-photoaging. Chin. J. Aesthet. Med. 2010, 19, 1087–1090. (In Chinese)
  8. Research Progress on Skin Aging and Active Ingredients Xin He 1,2,3, Fang Wan 1,3, Wenhui Su 1,3 and Weidong Xie 1,2,3, *
  9. Rittié, L.; Fisher, G.J. Natural and sun-induced aging of human skin. Cold Spring Harb. Perspect. Med. 2015, 5, a015370. [CrossRef]
  10. Xian, S.S.; Xian, Z.Y. Collagen glycosylation induces skin aging in vitro. Chin. J. Dermatol. 2007, 40, 716. (In Chinese)
  11. American Academy of Dermatology, “Causes of Aging Skin,” 2005. 
  12. Kathy Peiss, “Hope in a Jar: The Making of America’s Beauty Culture,” Henry Holt and Company Inc, New York, 1998.  
  13. https://www.garnier.in/about-our-brands/skin-naturals/wrinkle-lift-anti-ageing-cream
  14. https://www.cosrx.com/products/the-retinol-0-1-cream
  15. https://www.forestessentialsindia.com/age-defying-ritual.html?utm_source=googlle&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=FORE_14187_adyogi_PerformanceMax_NewUsers-18021250258&utm_content={adid}&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8r2AuICAgwMViForCh0whQuBEAQYBSABEgJ-cfD_BwE
  16. https://glopetra.com/products/vitamin-c-20-serum?variant=46654166794531¤cy=INR&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8r2AuICAgwMViForCh0whQuBEAQYBiABEgIIW_D_BwE
  17. https://thedermaco.com/product/0-3-retinol serum?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=17558882524&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8r2AuICAgwMViForCh0whQuBEAQYByABEgJiT_D_BwE 
  18. https://in.iherb.com/pr/himalaya-anti-wrinkle-cream-1-69-oz-50-ml/78765?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8r2AuICAgwMViForCh0whQuBEAQYCCABEgKr9_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
  19. https://www.clinique.in/product/4034/87057/skin-care/serums/new-clinique-smart-clinical-repairtm-wrinkle-correcting-serum
  20. https://www.lakmeindia.com/products/lakme-youth-infinity-serum-30-ml
  21. https://lotus-organics.com/products/bakuchiol-advanced-anti-ageing-duo-1?utm_source=adyogi&utm_medium=google-performancemax&utm_campaign=LOTU_9229_adyogi_PerformanceMax_Allothers-18266563393&gad_source=4&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlOmB2b2lgwMVtCmDAx08eQbJEAQYASABEgK5IPD_BwE
  22. https://swissbeauty.in/products/anti-ageing-elixir-serum
  23. Shreya Shanbhag, Akshatha Nayak, Reema Narayan, Usha Yogendra Nayak, Anti-aging and Sunscreens: Paradigm Shift in Cosmetics, Advanced Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 2019, 9(3), 348-359.
  24. Sumaiyah, Sumaiyah* and Meyliana, Formulation and Evaluation of Skin Anti-aging Nanocream Containing Canola (Brassica napus L.) Oil, Indonesian Journal of Pharmaceutical and Clinical Research (IDJPCR) Vol. 04, No. 01, 2021| 47– 58.
  25. S. M. Savic, N. D. Cekic, S. R. Savic, T. M. Ilic, S. D. Savic, ‘All-      natural           anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with            Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments(DoE)       formulation approach, rheology, and in vivo           skin performance/ efficacy           evaluation. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 00, 1–           16 (2021).
  26. Fadia S. Youssef1*, Mohamed Fawzy Ramadan2, Valentina Echeverria Moran3,4, Adeyemi O. Aremu5,6 and Nilufar Z. Mamadalieva7, Potential of natural products as drug leads possessing antioxidant and anti-aging properties, Frontiers in Pharmacology, 09 December 2022, 1-3.
  27. M. A. Farage, K. W. Miller, H. I. Maibach (eds.), Textbook of Aging Skin, DOI 10.1007/978-3-540-89656-2_22, # Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2010.
  28. Da-Hye Son1, Woo-Jin Park2, Yong-Jae Lee1, Recent Advances in Anti-Aging Medicine, Korean J Fam Med 2019;40:289-296.
  29. Ferreira, M.S.; Magalhães, M.C.; Oliveira, R.; Sousa-Lobo, J.M.; Almeida, I.F. Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics. Molecules 2021, 26, 3584.
  30. Ji?Kai Liu, Antiaging agents: safe interventions to slow aging and healthy life span extension, Natural Products and Bioprospecting, (2022) 12:18, 1-36.
  31. SaimaJadoon,1 SabihaKarim,2 MuhammadHasshamHassanBinAsad,3 MuhammadRoufAkram,4 AbidaKalsoomKhan,5 ArifMalik,6 ChunyeChen,7 andGhulamMurtaza3, Anti-Aging Potential of Phytoextract Loaded-Pharmaceutical Creams for Human Skin Cell Longetivity, Hindawi Publishing Corporation Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity Volume 2015, Article ID 709628, 1-17.
  32. Aranya Manosroi, Romchat Chutoprapat, Masahiko Abe, Worapaka Manosroi & Jiradej Manosroi (2012) Anti-aging efficacy of topical formulations containing niosomes entrapped with rice bran bioactive compounds, Pharmaceutical Biology, 50:2, 208-224.
  33. Mohamed A. Salem1*, Eman G. Manaa2, Nada Osama3, Nora M. Aborehab4, Mai F. Ragab5, Yusuf A. Haggag6, Magda T. Ibrahim7 & Dalia I. Hamdan1*, Coriander (Coriandrum sativum L.) essential oil and oil?loaded nano?formulations as an anti?aging potentiality via TGF?/SMAD pathway, Scientific Reports, (2022), 12:6578.
  34. Value of the global anti-aging market 2021-2027, Published by Dominique Petruzzi, Sep 26, 2023
  35. Majid Saeedia, Masoumeh Eslamifarb, Khadijeh Khezri, Kojic acid applications in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations, Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy (110) (2019) 582–593.

Reference

  1. Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin, Paul A.J. Kolarsick, BS Maria Ann Kolarsick, MSN, ARNP-C, and Carolyn Goodwin, APRN-BC, FNP; Page No, 1–11.
  2. Ruta Ganceviciene,1, † Aikaterini i. Liakou,2, † Athanasios Theodoridis,2, † Evgenia Makrantonaki2 and Christos C. Zouboulis2, Skin anti-aging strategies, Dermato-endocrinology 4:3, July–December 2012, 308–319.
  3. Research progress on skin aging and active ingredients, MDPI, Molecules 2023.
  4. Harman, D. Aging—A theory based on free-radical and radiation-chemistry. J. Gerontol. 1956, 11, 298–300
  5. Harman D. The biologic clock: The mitochondria? J. Am. Geriatr. Soc. 1972; 20:145–147.
  6. Schumacher, B.; Pothof, J.; Vijg, J.; Hoeijmakers, J.H.J. The central role of DNA damage in the ageing process. Nature 2021, 592, 695–703. [CrossRef] [PubMed]
  7. Fen, Z.J.; Chun, L.; Wei, L. Research progress on matrix metalloproteinases inhibitors in anti-photoaging. Chin. J. Aesthet. Med. 2010, 19, 1087–1090. (In Chinese)
  8. Research Progress on Skin Aging and Active Ingredients Xin He 1,2,3, Fang Wan 1,3, Wenhui Su 1,3 and Weidong Xie 1,2,3, *
  9. Rittié, L.; Fisher, G.J. Natural and sun-induced aging of human skin. Cold Spring Harb. Perspect. Med. 2015, 5, a015370. [CrossRef]
  10. Xian, S.S.; Xian, Z.Y. Collagen glycosylation induces skin aging in vitro. Chin. J. Dermatol. 2007, 40, 716. (In Chinese)
  11. American Academy of Dermatology, “Causes of Aging Skin,” 2005. 
  12. Kathy Peiss, “Hope in a Jar: The Making of America’s Beauty Culture,” Henry Holt and Company Inc, New York, 1998.  
  13. https://www.garnier.in/about-our-brands/skin-naturals/wrinkle-lift-anti-ageing-cream
  14. https://www.cosrx.com/products/the-retinol-0-1-cream
  15. https://www.forestessentialsindia.com/age-defying-ritual.html?utm_source=googlle&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=FORE_14187_adyogi_PerformanceMax_NewUsers-18021250258&utm_content={adid}&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8r2AuICAgwMViForCh0whQuBEAQYBSABEgJ-cfD_BwE
  16. https://glopetra.com/products/vitamin-c-20-serum?variant=46654166794531¤cy=INR&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8r2AuICAgwMViForCh0whQuBEAQYBiABEgIIW_D_BwE
  17. https://thedermaco.com/product/0-3-retinol serum?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=17558882524&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8r2AuICAgwMViForCh0whQuBEAQYByABEgJiT_D_BwE 
  18. https://in.iherb.com/pr/himalaya-anti-wrinkle-cream-1-69-oz-50-ml/78765?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8r2AuICAgwMViForCh0whQuBEAQYCCABEgKr9_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
  19. https://www.clinique.in/product/4034/87057/skin-care/serums/new-clinique-smart-clinical-repairtm-wrinkle-correcting-serum
  20. https://www.lakmeindia.com/products/lakme-youth-infinity-serum-30-ml
  21. https://lotus-organics.com/products/bakuchiol-advanced-anti-ageing-duo-1?utm_source=adyogi&utm_medium=google-performancemax&utm_campaign=LOTU_9229_adyogi_PerformanceMax_Allothers-18266563393&gad_source=4&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlOmB2b2lgwMVtCmDAx08eQbJEAQYASABEgK5IPD_BwE
  22. https://swissbeauty.in/products/anti-ageing-elixir-serum
  23. Shreya Shanbhag, Akshatha Nayak, Reema Narayan, Usha Yogendra Nayak, Anti-aging and Sunscreens: Paradigm Shift in Cosmetics, Advanced Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 2019, 9(3), 348-359.
  24. Sumaiyah, Sumaiyah* and Meyliana, Formulation and Evaluation of Skin Anti-aging Nanocream Containing Canola (Brassica napus L.) Oil, Indonesian Journal of Pharmaceutical and Clinical Research (IDJPCR) Vol. 04, No. 01, 2021| 47– 58.
  25. S. M. Savic, N. D. Cekic, S. R. Savic, T. M. Ilic, S. D. Savic, ‘All-      natural           anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with            Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments(DoE)       formulation approach, rheology, and in vivo           skin performance/ efficacy           evaluation. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 00, 1–           16 (2021).
  26. Fadia S. Youssef1*, Mohamed Fawzy Ramadan2, Valentina Echeverria Moran3,4, Adeyemi O. Aremu5,6 and Nilufar Z. Mamadalieva7, Potential of natural products as drug leads possessing antioxidant and anti-aging properties, Frontiers in Pharmacology, 09 December 2022, 1-3.
  27. M. A. Farage, K. W. Miller, H. I. Maibach (eds.), Textbook of Aging Skin, DOI 10.1007/978-3-540-89656-2_22, # Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2010.
  28. Da-Hye Son1, Woo-Jin Park2, Yong-Jae Lee1, Recent Advances in Anti-Aging Medicine, Korean J Fam Med 2019;40:289-296.
  29. Ferreira, M.S.; Magalhães, M.C.; Oliveira, R.; Sousa-Lobo, J.M.; Almeida, I.F. Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics. Molecules 2021, 26, 3584.
  30. Ji?Kai Liu, Antiaging agents: safe interventions to slow aging and healthy life span extension, Natural Products and Bioprospecting, (2022) 12:18, 1-36.
  31. SaimaJadoon,1 SabihaKarim,2 MuhammadHasshamHassanBinAsad,3 MuhammadRoufAkram,4 AbidaKalsoomKhan,5 ArifMalik,6 ChunyeChen,7 andGhulamMurtaza3, Anti-Aging Potential of Phytoextract Loaded-Pharmaceutical Creams for Human Skin Cell Longetivity, Hindawi Publishing Corporation Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity Volume 2015, Article ID 709628, 1-17.
  32. Aranya Manosroi, Romchat Chutoprapat, Masahiko Abe, Worapaka Manosroi & Jiradej Manosroi (2012) Anti-aging efficacy of topical formulations containing niosomes entrapped with rice bran bioactive compounds, Pharmaceutical Biology, 50:2, 208-224.
  33. Mohamed A. Salem1*, Eman G. Manaa2, Nada Osama3, Nora M. Aborehab4, Mai F. Ragab5, Yusuf A. Haggag6, Magda T. Ibrahim7 & Dalia I. Hamdan1*, Coriander (Coriandrum sativum L.) essential oil and oil?loaded nano?formulations as an anti?aging potentiality via TGF?/SMAD pathway, Scientific Reports, (2022), 12:6578.
  34. Value of the global anti-aging market 2021-2027, Published by Dominique Petruzzi, Sep 26, 2023
  35. Majid Saeedia, Masoumeh Eslamifarb, Khadijeh Khezri, Kojic acid applications in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations, Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy (110) (2019) 582–593.

Photo
Sakshi Pawar
Corresponding author

Research Scholar, Sandip Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Nashik Maharashtra india.

Photo
Prashant Unde
Co-author

Research Scholar, Sandip Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Nashik Maharashtra india.

Sakshi Pawar*, Prashant Unde, Recent evolutions in development of Antiaging Cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals: A Review, Int. J. of Pharm. Sci., 2024, Vol 2, Issue 7, 1606-1614. https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.12795110

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