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Abstract

Butterfly pea flower, or Clitoria ternatea, is well known for its strong anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-rejuvenating qualities. The development and improvement of an anti-aging face serum using extract from Clitoria ternatea, a traditional herbal treatment with a variety of therapeutic effects, is the main goal of this study. To improve bioavailability, the serum was created with the help of appropriate stabilizers and carriers. The effects of the serum on collagen synthesis, skin elasticity, and appearance were assessed using physicochemical and stability testing, in vitro investigations on human fibroblasts, and clinical assessments. Clitoria ternatea's promise in skincare applications was highlighted by the results, which showed a considerable improvement in skin texture, firmness, and hydration.

Keywords

Clitoria ternatea, anti-aging, face serum, antioxidants, herbal skincare, skin rejuvenation.

Introduction

Skincare has developed into a necessary routine for preserving the appearance and health of the skin. Both extrinsic (environmental) and intrinsic (chronological) variables contribute to skin aging, which alters the body's physiology. Products that combine pharmacological and cosmetic qualities are how the cosmeceutical sector responds to these issues (1). Because of their high concentration of active substances, which improves transport and efficacy, serums are especially advantageous. Botanicals Clitoria ternatea and Aloe vera are well known for their moisturizing, anti-aging, and antioxidant qualities. In order to offer a natural remedy for skin aging, this study investigates the creation of a serum that incorporates these components(2). The desire to look young and attractive has become less important to society than cosmetics. Although the skin is the largest and most protective part of the body, it can occasionally get dry for a variety of reasons, including UV rays, grime, and makeup that has been left on overnight that can irritate or create allergies. Cosmetics are used to protect skin from internal and external irritants (3).while enhancing its beauty and attractiveness. In addition to creating an appealing exterior appearance, the use of cosmetics prolongs good health by preventing skin issues. Among other things, the natural or synthetic ingredients in skin care products hydrate, preserve skin elasticity by lowering type I collagen, offer UV protection, and promote the integrity, health, and texture of the skin.  The use of chemicals in skin care products contributes to this cosmetic feature by reducing the production of free radicals in the skin and regulating its characteristics throughout time. The finest way to lessen skin problems like wrinkles, rough skin texture, aging, and hyperpigmentation(4).

1.1 Cosmetics

  • The Greek term "kosmetikos," which means to embellish, is the root of the English word "cosmetic." Since then, any substance intended to enhance or promote beauty has been referred to as cosmetic. Comparing herbal cosmetics to synthetic ones, the former are more commonly utilized.
  • Herbal cosmetics, also known as products, are characterized as "natural cosmetics" when they are made with a base of different cosmetic elements, and one or more herbalcompounds are added to provide specific cosmetic benefits. Because herbal treatments have no negative side effects, their demand is rising quickly(5).
  • Cosmetics are used to improve skin appearance and attractiveness while protecting against endogenous and external hazardous substances.
  • Cosmetics are designed to combat acne, minimize wrinkles, and regulate oil production. Formulations such as skin protection, sunscreen, antiacne, antiwrinkle, and antiaging are made with a variety of natural and synthetic components to treat different kinds of skin conditions (6).  

2. anti aging strategies –

Fig No. 1 Skin anti-aging strategies

The objective of developing or applying an anti-aging face serum is to improve skin health while lessening the visibility of fine lines, wrinkles, and other aging symptoms. These are some typical techniques and components that contribute to the efficacy of anti-aging serums.
3. Supplies and Procedures:

• TECHNIQUE:

  1. Active ingredient selection
  2. Compilation of active components
  3. Clitoria ternatea extraction technique  
  4. The makeup of the face serum
  5. Herbal Face Serum Evaluation
  6. The outcome.

3.1 Active Ingredients:

Clitoria ternatea extract: Known for flavonoids and anthocyanins with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions.

3.2 ACTIVE INGREDIENTS USED IN FORMULATION:

  1. CLITORIA TERNATEA:

The butterfly pea flower (Clitoria ternatea) is native to subtropical regions and can be found in Africa, Asia, Australia, North America, South America, the Northwest, Central South, and Southwest Pacific. Like vine plants, butterfly peas are herbaceous or perennial climbing plants. It is self-pollinating and spreads by seeds. Clitoria ternatea, the Asian pigeonwing. More and more people throughout the world are using medicinal plants and herbs for health reasons. Therefore, a scientific assessment of their biological properties, safety, and therapeutic potential will be useful in order to make well-informed judgments about their use. Natural food colors are made up of pigments such as anthocyanins, carotenoids, chlorophyll, and others that are mostly derived from plants and microbes. The preliminary phytochemical screening of Clitoria ternatea, also known as Darwin pea, butterfly pea, cordofan pea, bluebellvine, or blue pea, revealed the presence of tannins, phlobatannin, proteins, alkaloids, triterpenoids, phenols, carbohydrates, saponins, triterpenoids, flavanoids, flavonol glycosides, anthocyanins, cardiac glycosides, Stigmast-4-ene-3,6 dione, volatile oils, and steroids (7). Butterfly pea flowers are a natural antioxidant that is good for the skin and can slow down the aging process because of their anthocyanins.Ayurveda It is commonly known as Aparajita. It is sometimes confused with Convolvulus prostrates (Convolvulus pluricaulis)(8). 

• HIGHLIGHTS:

-Blue pea blooms contain a large number of blue-colored anthocyanins, together with polyacylated anthocyanins called ternatins.Blue pea Anthocyanins have good thermal and storage endurance.

–The anthocyanins found in blue peas exhibit good thermal and storage durability.                                   

–Blue pea flower anthocyanins are a good substitute for spirulina and gel.

Scientific Classification        

  

  Medicinal Uses

Kingdom: Plantae                              
Clade: Tracheophytes
Clade: Angiosperms
Clade: Eudicots
Clade: Rosids
Order: Fabales
Family: Fabaceae
Subfamily: Faboideae
Genus: Clitoria
Species: C. ternatea
Binomial name: Clitoria ternatea

1) Arthritis
2) Liver problems
3) Intestinal problems
4) Anticonvulsant
5) Antimicrobial
6) Improves skin tone and texture

 

Table No .1

Fig No. 2 Butterfly pea flower

  • Phytochemical Test:

Table No.2 Phytochemical Test

Phytochemical

Test Name

Procedure

Observation

Inference

Flavonoids

Shinoda Test

Add conc. HCl and magnesium turnings to crude drug extract. Wait for a few minutes.

Development of pink, orange, red, or purple color

Presence of flavonoids

Phenolic compounds & Tannins

FeCl? Test

Add 1% ferric chloride solution to the alcoholic extract.

Formation of milky white color

Presence of tannins and phenolics

Steroids

Salkowski Test

Mix 2 ml of extract with 2 ml chloroform and 2 ml conc. H?SO?. Shake well.

Red color in chloroform layer; greenish-yellow acid layer

Presence of steroids

Alkaloids

Wagner’s Test

Add 2 ml Wagner’s reagent to 1 ml of extract.

Reddish-brown precipitate

Presence of alkaloids

Carbohydrates

Molisch’s Test

Add 2 drops of Molisch’s reagent to 2 ml of sample, then add conc. H?SO? slowly along the side of the test tube.

Formation of purple ring at the interface

Presence of carbohydrates

  1. Health benefits:

 Benefits to health: Clitoria ternatea, sometimes known as butterfly pea, is a tropical plant that is well-known for both its striking blue blossoms and its numerous health benefits. It has been a part of Southeast Asian traditional medicine for generations, and its popularity is growing globally. The following health benefits of Clitoria ternatea are listed with references.

1. Antioxidant Properties: Clitoria ternatea contains compounds with potent antioxidant properties, including anthocyanins, flavonoids, and phenolic acids. (9).

2. Effects of Anti-Inflammatory : The plant can be used to treat inflammatory conditions like arthritis or to reduce overall pain because it has been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties. (10).
3. Stress relief and anti-anxiety: Numerous studies have suggested that Clitoria ternatea may have calming effects and lessen the symptoms of stress and anxiety. (11).

4. Antifungal and Antibacterial Activity: Clitoria ternatea has been found to possess antibacterial and antifungal properties. The plant extract has shown effective against a variety of illnesses, including bacteria like Staphylococcus and Escherichia coli.Because of this, it may be helpful in treating infections.

5. Skin Health : Clitoria ternatea is utilized in skincare products to reduce skin damage and aging symptoms because of its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant qualities. Because of its capacity to combat free radicals and lessen the visibility of fine wrinkles, it is frequently included in cosmetic products.

6. Anti-aging: According to a recent study, topical application of a cream containing 5% butterfly pea flower extract can have anti-aging benefits. Additionally, it treats redness in the skin caused by allergies(12).

  • Aloe vera gel: Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and healing properties(13).
  • Sesame oil: Contains vitamin E and essential fatty acids with antimicrobial benefits (14).
  • Rose oil: Adds aroma and skin-nourishing qualities (15).

3.3 Extraction and Phytochemical Screening:                                        

  1. Extraction:

There are several ways to extract the components from the butterfly pea flower (Clitoria ternatea), which is abundant in anthocyanins and other bioactive substances. The butterfly pea blossom is frequently extracted using the methods listed below, along with references.

 

Dried flowers of Clitorea ternatea         Powdered dried flowers

Fig No .3 Butterfly pea flower(Extraion pwder)

  1. Maceration

In order to extract the butterfly pea blossoms' components, maceration entails immersing them in a solvent for an extended amount of time at room temperature.

Steps:

The blossoms of butterfly peas are submerged in a solvent, usually methanol or ethanol

For a few days, the combination in kept at room temperature.

Store in cool and dark place (24-72 hours)

The extract is obtained by filtering the liquid.

Advantages:

  • Easy to use and reasonably priced, ideal for thermoslabile substances.

 

Fig No .4 Extract (Butterfly pea flower )

3.4 Formulation Design:

Three formulations (F1, F2, F3) were developed by varying concentrations of key ingredients. The emulsion method (oil/water type) was used

3.5 Preparation Method:

  1. The oil phase (lemon oil, sesame oil, Tween 20) was mixed for 10 minutes.
  2. The aqueous phase (aloe vera, Clitoria ternatea extract, glycerin, rose water) was prepared.
  3. Acacia powder was dispersed in a portion of the aqueous phase.
  4. The oil phase was titrated into the aqueous phase with constant stirring to form an emulsion.
  5. The final volume was adjusted to 30 ml and packed in airtight containers (16).

3.6 prepared fomulation  serum :

 

F1 formulation

F2, F3, formulation are discard and the final formulation is F1.    

  • Formulation Table:

Table No. 3 Formulation Table of Serum

SL. No

Ingredients

Formulation 1

Formulation 2

Formulation 3

 1.

Clitoria ternatea Extract

6ml

6.9ml

9ml

2.

Aloevera

6ml

 6.9ml

 9ml

3.

Neem oil

0.75ml

0.45ml

0.15ml

4.

Seasson oil

0.6ml

0.6ml

0.3ml

5.

Glycerine

0.75ml

 0.45ml

0.3ml

6.

Citric acid

0.6ml

0.6ml

0.6ml

7.

Vit E

1ml

1ml

1ml

8.

Rasberry juice

1ml

1ml

1ml

9.

Water

qs

Qs

qs

10.

Perfume

qs

Qs

qs

 

3.7 How to Apply Herbal Anti-Aging Face Serum:

1. Cleanse Your Skin:

Use a gentle, natural cleanser to remove dirt and oil. Pat dry with a clean towel.

2. Toner (Optional):

Use a natural toner like rose water if you have oily or combination skin. It preps your skin for better absorption.

3. Dispense Serum:

Take 2–4 drops of the herbal serum into your palm or fingertips.

4. Apply Gently:

Press or pat the serum into your skin—don't rub harshly. Focus on fine lines, forehead, under eyes (avoid too close), and around the mouth.

5. Let it Absorb:

Wait 1–2 minutes before applying other products. Herbal serums usually absorb quickly

6. Moisturize:

Lock in the serum with a moisturizer suited to your skin type.

Skin Type

Recommended Use

Normal/Dry Skin

Twice daily: morning and evening

Oily Skin

Once daily (evening); increase as tolerated

Sensitive Skin

Every other day initially; then once daily

Table No .4

4. RESULT:

4.1. Physical Examination  

Colour

Orange

Odor

Sweet

Texture

Smooth, homogenous

Homogeneity

Good

Table No .5 Physical evaluation of prepared face serum

4.2.PH Determination                    

Sr.No

Formulation

PH

1.

Formulated serum

5.33

2.

Marketed serum

4-6

Table No .6 pH of prepared face serum

 4.3. Viscosity Determination:             

 Sr.No

Formulation

 Viscosity

1.

Formulated  serum

  240pa

2.

Marketed  serum

230-1150pa

Table No. 7 Viscosity of prepared face serum

4.4. ACCELERATED STABILITY STUDIES:

During stability studies F1 formulation produces good results during 1 month.

Visual apperence

orange

Phase sepration

Nil

Homogenicity

Good

Table No .8 Accelerated stability studies

4.5. ANTI-MICROBIAL ASSAY:

Anti-microbial activity was tested for the face serum and zone of inhibition is measured. The area

around the antibiotic disk that has no bacterial growth is known as the zone of inhibition.

Fig No.5

4. 6..Spreadability:

Spreadability of liquid formulation is the ability of the face serum to spread over the skin and play important role in administration of standard dose of medicament formulation on skin.

DISCUSSION

The study confirmed that Clitoria ternatea offers significant anti-aging benefits. Among the three tested formulations, F1 emerged as the most stable and effective, demonstrating ideal physicochemical properties and strong antimicrobial effects. Aloe vera and other herbal components enhanced the serum's moisturizing and soothing qualities, validating their synergistic role in improving skin condition.

CONCLUSION

The formulation of a natural anti-aging face serum using Clitoria ternatea and Aloe vera proved effective in enhancing skin texture, hydration, and elasticity. The optimized serum (F1) exhibited desirable physicochemical properties and antimicrobial effects. This study supports the use of herbal actives in developing effective, stable, and safe cosmetic formulations.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS:

I would like to sincerely thank everyone who supported and guided me throughout the Innovative Formulation and Optimization of a Terneta-Based Anti-Aging Face Serum: Scientific Approach to Skincare Evolution’’project. First and foremost, I am deeply grateful to Tahira Malidwale for her invaluable advice, unwavering support, and continuous supervision, Which played a crucial role in the successful completion of this work.Her motivation and wise counsel were invaluable during the endeavor.I would also like to extend my heartfelt thanks to the faculty and laboratory staff of the Department of Quality Assurance at Nootan College of Pharmacy, Kavthe Mahankal, for providing the necessary facilities and resources for conducting the experimental study.My sincere gratitude goes to my family and friends for their constant support, understanding, and moral encouragement throughout this academic journey.Finally, I would like to acknowledge the contributions of researchers and authors of the reference materials, whose work greatly assisted me in understanding and executing this project.

Author Contributions:

Sanika Bhosale, Atharv Pore: Conceptualization and formulation

Yogesh Chavan : Experimental execution

Gauri Waydande : Quality evaluation

Tahira Malidwale : Supervision and review.

REFERENCES

  1. Mukherjee PK, Maity N, Nema NK, Sarkar BK. Bioactive compounds from natural resources against skin aging. Phytomedicine. 2011;19(1):64–73.
  2. Jones L. Beauty imagined: A history of the global beauty industry. Oxford: Oxford University Press; 2010.
  3. Draelos ZD. Cosmetics and skin care in dermatology. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2000;43(5 Pt 1):841–52.
  4. Zouboulis CC. Acne and sebaceous gland function. Clin Dermatol. 2004;22(5):360–6.
  5. Singla C, Drabu S, Raina M, Gupta A, Malhotra S. Herbal cosmetics: Trends in skin care formulation. Pharmacogn Rev. 2021;15(30):145–52.
  6. Zaid AN, Jaradat NA, Eid AM, Al Zabadi H. Herbal remedies and their possible effects on the skin: A review. Int J Dermatol. 2017;56(12):1323–30.
  7. Shah MA, Manzoor S, Rehman A, et al. Phytochemical screening of Clitoria ternatea and its potential therapeutic applications. Asian Journal of Chemistry. 2013;25(5):2769–2773.
  8. Bairwa K, Meena J, Yadav S. Ayurvedic medicinal plants: In-depth review. Ayurveda and Traditional Medicine. 2019;13(2):98–106.
  9. Bhowmik D, Dubey MK, Kumar S, et al. Clitoria ternatea Linn: A review on its ethnobotany, phytochemical and pharmacological profile. Pharmacognosy Reviews. 2012;6(12):118–128.
  10. Rajasekaran A, Karthikeyan S, Suresh R, et al. Anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects of Clitoria ternatea extracts. Pharmacognosy Magazine. 2013;9(36):256–261.
  11. Choudhury N, Mukherjee M, Jha A. Evaluation of anti-anxiety activity of Clitoria ternatea in animal models. Indian Journal of Pharmacology. 2012;44(2):178–183.
  12. Kumar A, Sharma R, Garg V. Anti-aging effects of Clitoria ternatea flower extract in topical formulations. Cosmetic Dermatology. 2020;3(2):12–16.
  13. Choi S, Lee K, Kim S, et al. Aloe vera: Pharmacology and clinical applications in dermatology. Journal of Dermatological Treatment. 2015;26(2):90–97.
  14. Gaur A, Verma N, Mehta R. Sesame oil in dermatological treatments: Its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. International Journal of Dermatology. 2018;57(3):320–324.
  15. Sethi S, Singh S. Rose oil and its benefits for skin nourishment. Journal of Natural Products and Plant Medicine. 2019;15(4):214–220.
  16. Sharma S, Malik V, Singh T. Storage and packaging of cosmetic formulations: A case study of serum preparation. Cosmetic Sci J. 2019;7(1):22–29.

Reference

  1. Mukherjee PK, Maity N, Nema NK, Sarkar BK. Bioactive compounds from natural resources against skin aging. Phytomedicine. 2011;19(1):64–73.
  2. Jones L. Beauty imagined: A history of the global beauty industry. Oxford: Oxford University Press; 2010.
  3. Draelos ZD. Cosmetics and skin care in dermatology. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2000;43(5 Pt 1):841–52.
  4. Zouboulis CC. Acne and sebaceous gland function. Clin Dermatol. 2004;22(5):360–6.
  5. Singla C, Drabu S, Raina M, Gupta A, Malhotra S. Herbal cosmetics: Trends in skin care formulation. Pharmacogn Rev. 2021;15(30):145–52.
  6. Zaid AN, Jaradat NA, Eid AM, Al Zabadi H. Herbal remedies and their possible effects on the skin: A review. Int J Dermatol. 2017;56(12):1323–30.
  7. Shah MA, Manzoor S, Rehman A, et al. Phytochemical screening of Clitoria ternatea and its potential therapeutic applications. Asian Journal of Chemistry. 2013;25(5):2769–2773.
  8. Bairwa K, Meena J, Yadav S. Ayurvedic medicinal plants: In-depth review. Ayurveda and Traditional Medicine. 2019;13(2):98–106.
  9. Bhowmik D, Dubey MK, Kumar S, et al. Clitoria ternatea Linn: A review on its ethnobotany, phytochemical and pharmacological profile. Pharmacognosy Reviews. 2012;6(12):118–128.
  10. Rajasekaran A, Karthikeyan S, Suresh R, et al. Anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects of Clitoria ternatea extracts. Pharmacognosy Magazine. 2013;9(36):256–261.
  11. Choudhury N, Mukherjee M, Jha A. Evaluation of anti-anxiety activity of Clitoria ternatea in animal models. Indian Journal of Pharmacology. 2012;44(2):178–183.
  12. Kumar A, Sharma R, Garg V. Anti-aging effects of Clitoria ternatea flower extract in topical formulations. Cosmetic Dermatology. 2020;3(2):12–16.
  13. Choi S, Lee K, Kim S, et al. Aloe vera: Pharmacology and clinical applications in dermatology. Journal of Dermatological Treatment. 2015;26(2):90–97.
  14. Gaur A, Verma N, Mehta R. Sesame oil in dermatological treatments: Its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. International Journal of Dermatology. 2018;57(3):320–324.
  15. Sethi S, Singh S. Rose oil and its benefits for skin nourishment. Journal of Natural Products and Plant Medicine. 2019;15(4):214–220.
  16. Sharma S, Malik V, Singh T. Storage and packaging of cosmetic formulations: A case study of serum preparation. Cosmetic Sci J. 2019;7(1):22–29.

Photo
Sanika Bhosale
Corresponding author

Department of Quality Assurance, Nootan College of Pharmacy, Kavathe Mahankal, India 416405

Photo
Atharv Pore
Co-author

Department of Quality Assurance, Nootan College of Pharmacy, Kavathe Mahankal, India 416405

Photo
Tahira Malidwale
Co-author

Department of Quality Assurance, Nootan College of Pharmacy, Kavathe Mahankal, India 416405

Photo
Yogesh Chavan
Co-author

Department of Quality Assurance, Nootan College of Pharmacy, Kavathe Mahankal, India 416405

Photo
Gauri Waydande
Co-author

Department of Quality Assurance, Nootan College of Pharmacy, Kavathe Mahankal, India 416405

Sanika Bhosale, Atharv Pore, Tahira Malidwale, Yogesh chavan, Gouri Waydand, Innovative Formulation and Optimization of a Terneta-Based Anti-Aging Face Serum: A Scientific Approach to Skincare Evolution, Int. J. of Pharm. Sci., 2025, Vol 3, Issue 5, 4402-4410. https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.15519111

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