Abstract

Shampoo is a hair care product, that is used for cleaning hair. The aim of the present work was to develop a multipurpose polyherbal powder shampoo. Here the multipurpose means antidandruff action as well as hair dye action. Dandruff is a chronic scalp condition characterized by scaling, itching and redness of the scalp. Hair dye is usually a substance of synthetic or natural origin, which is used to colour the hair as per the desired shade. In this work various plants such as Wrightia tinctoria, Eclipta prostata, Morinda citrifolia, Cyclia peltata, etc were collected, dried, size reduced, weighed, mixed, sieved, packed and labelled. In this work a total of six formulations were made using different ingredients and among these a best formulation were selected. Various evaluation tests were carried out in order to select a best formulation such as stability studies, invitro agar well diffusion method, cleaning action, wetting action, foaming ability, foam stability, dirt dispersion test etc. This work mainly focused to avoid the harmful side effects of the chemically synthesized shampoo and to achieve a better antidandruff as well as hair dye action from a single herbal formulation and from the study such a formulation were made.

Keywords

Dandruff, Scaling, Wrightia tinctoria, Cyclia peltata, Eclipta prostata, Morinda citrifolia.

Introduction

HERBAL MEDICINE

Herbal medicines are used to treat diseases and enhance general health and wellbeing. Herbal medicines are also known as herbal remedies, phytomedicines or phytotherapy. They are still the most widely used system of medicine. Due to its natural origin and less side effects, herbal medicines still flourish and are finding remarkable acceptance in both developed and developing countries. The medicinal plants has a great importance in the human being as it shows various pharmacological properties. Phytochemicals were used by the man for the treatment of various diseases like microbial infections, cardiovascular disorders, carcinogenic complications, metabolic disorders etc. According to the current research, the use of herbal medicines are increasing throughout the world than conventional drugs.

According to World Health Organization, it is determined that 80% of the world population only depends upon herbal medicines for the treatment of various diseases. Plant based medicines are used for the treatment of various diseases such as inflammation, wound healing, skin infections, psoriasis, leprosy, ulcers etc. Today the novel formulations are reported to have more significant advantages over conventional formulations which include enhancement of bioavailability, solubility, pharmacological activity, stability, sustained delivery, protection t from toxicity, physical and chemical degradation.

HERBAL COSMETICS

Herbal cosmetics are also called as natural cosmetics. Herbal cosmetics are defined as the beauty products, which possess desirable physiological activities, such as skin healing, smoothening, to improve appearance, enhancing and conditioning properties with the help of herbal ingredients. Herbal cosmetics are the products which are formulated using various permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetic benefits. The best thing of the herbal cosmetics is that it is purely made by the herbs and shrubs and thus herbal cosmetics are considered as side effects free. The natural contents in the herbs provides nutrients and other useful minerals to the human body. Herbal cosmetics are the products in which herbs are used in crude or extract form. Herbs do not produce instant cure. They offer a way to put the body in proper tune with nature.

HAIR COSMETICS

Hair care products are referred as the formulations meant for cleaning, imparting the color, modifying the texture, nourishing the hair, giving life to the stressed hair and to give healthy looks to the hair. Hair care products include hair oil, shampoo, hair dye, hair strengtheners and depilatories.

ANATOMY OF HAIR

Hair is a keratinous filament growing out of the epidermis. Hair is one of the vital parts of the body and is considered to be the accessory structure of the integuments along with sebaceous gland and sweat gland. They are also known as epidermal derivatives as they originate from the epidermis during embryological development. They can also act as sense organs and the main functions of the hair follicles include regulation of body temperature, protection, evaporation of perspiration and draining of external water from the body.

Hair root:

The hair root is located in the skin and extends down to the deeper layers of the skin. It is surrounded by the hair follicle, which is also connected to the sebaceous gland. Each hair follicle is attached to a tiny muscle called arrector pili that can make the hair stand up. As new hair cells emerge, the old cells move upwards, die slowly and forming hard hair shaft through a process called keratinization. Then, they germinate like seedlings from the epidermis through the dermis.

Hair shaft

Hair shaft is the visible part of the hair that sticks out of the skin. The hair shaft is composed of three concentric layers, the outer cuticle, middle cortex, and inner medulla. They differ from each other in the types of keratin filaments they possess.

Cuticle: It is the outermost part of the hair shaft. It helps to protect the inner layers of  the hair from damage and provides shine. It is comprised of overlapping cells that resemble fish scales. Healthy hair has a smooth, flat cuticle that is translucent and reflects light, making hair feels smooth and look shiny. If the cuticle is damaged, the hair feels rough and becomes vulnerable to chemical and mechanical damage.

Medulla: Medulla is the innermost layer of the hair shaft. It is composed of two or three rows of polyhedral cells containing pigment granules and air spaces. This is the most soft and fragile layer of the hair shaft.

Cortex: It is located between the hair cuticle and medulla and is the thickest hair layer. It contain most of the hair’s pigment. The major pigment in the cortex is melanin which is also present in skin.

DANDRUFF

Dandruff is a common condition that causes the skin on the scalp to flake. It is not contagious or serious. But it can be embarrassing and difficult to treat. It is characterized by presence of corneocytes that form clusters due to their high cohesive power, in the form of flaky white to yellowish scales, accompanied by itching. It has been observed that dandruff occurs mainly between puberty to middle age.

Three factors which is involved in the formation of dandruff are sebaceous gland secretions, Malassezia fungi, individual susceptibility. According to the symptoms, dandruff is classified as follows:

Dry dandruff: It is characterized by excessive formation of white grayish or ashen colored minute scales.

Oily dandruff: It arises on the scalp skin with varied intensity of sebum production.

TREATMENT OF DANDRUFF

Dandruff can be controlled and effectively treated by using various formulations. The formulation must be suitable for the hairy region and it should be compatible with the dandruff condition. There are different types of formulation like creams, shampoos, emulsions, lotions, hair oil and other cosmetic formulation containing anti-dandruff agents are readily available in the market to control dandruff. Out of which shampoos are the most common as well as a worldwide accepted cosmetic product used against dandruff.

A shampoo can be defined as a preparation of soap or detergent used to wash hair and which helps to control and reduce dandruff. Anti-dandruff shampoo is intended to kill dandruff, causing fungi that live on your scalp. The function of shampoo is to remove dirt, surface grease, and skin debris from the hair shaft and scalp without affecting adversely the hair, scalp or health of the user. Surfactants are the main component of shampoo. The raw materials used for the manufacture of shampoos are;

Primary surfactant: Sulfonates, Sulfides

Secondary surfactant: Sulfosuccinates

Anti-dandruff agents: Herbal extracts

Conditioning agent: Glycerin, Propylene glycol

Perfumes: Fruity or floral fragrances

Preservatives: Methyl paraben

ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO

The anti-dandruff shampoo is a preparation that contains anti-dandruff agents that are intended to reduce and treat the formation of dandruff flakes. Two types of anti-dandruff shampoos are commercially available:

1.Synthetic anti-dandruff shampoos (based on chemical ingredients)

These formulations include therapeutic use of anti-dandruff agents that are classified into three groups according to their mechanism of action:

Keratolytic substances

Cytostatic substances

Fungicidal substances

Some of the marked synthetic anti-dandruff shampoos are All Clear shampoo, Pantene Pro-V shampoo, Head and Shoulders shampoo etc.

DISADVANTAGES OF SYNTHETIC ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOOS

Continuous use of synthetic anti-dandruff shampoos makes hair brittle and causes dryness of the scalp. Anti-dandruff products such as cytostatic and keratolytic agents work only symptomatically, and often reoccurrence of dandruff after stopping treatment is observed.

HERBAL ANTIDANDRUFF SHAMPOO

Herbal anti-dandruff shampoos are the cosmetic preparations or formulations which contain herbal ingredients such as plant extracts and essential oil. These herbal shampoos are generally used to remove the dandruff, to add natural color to the hair, to remove the extra oil content of the hair, to remove the dust, dirt and scales of scalp, for the healthy growth of the hair, to prevent hair falling, to impart softness and smoothness to the hair shaft etc. There are large number of herbs which have beneficial effects on hair and are commonly used in shampoos.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

List of materials:

1: Plant materials used for the formulations

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PROCEDURE

The multipurpose poly herbal powder shampoo was prepared by simple mixing process. Firstly all the plant materials were collected and dried under shade. After that the materials were size reduced and then sieved using sieve no.120 and weighed the required amount of powdered materials essential for the formulation. All the ingredients are then mixed well and they were finally packed in a suitable container for evaluation.

EVALUATION

Evaluation of shampoo

A. organoleptic evaluation

The developed poly herbal powder shampoo were evaluated for their organoleptic characters like colour, odour, texture.

B. Physico-chemical evaluation

1. pH

The formulated shampoo where diluted  by using distilled water to produce a shampoo of 10%v/v concentration. The pH of the prepared shampoo was determined by using pH paper.

2. Dirt dispersion

Two drops of shampoo were added to a large test tube containing 10ml of distilled water. To this solution, one drop of India ink was added and the test tube was stoppered and shaken 10 times. The amount of ink in the foam was indicated as none, light, moderate or heavy.

 3. Foaming ability and Foam stability

50ml of 1% shampoo solution was put into 250ml graduated cylinder and covered the cylinder with hand and shaken for 10 times. The total volume of the foam contents after 1 minute shaking was recorded. The foam volume was calculated after shaking the volume of the foam at 1 minute interval for 4 minutes were recorded.

 4. Cleaning action

 5g of wool yarn were placed in grease, after that it was placed in 200 ml of water containing of shampoo in a flask. Temperature was maintained at 35°

 celsuis. The flask was shaked for 4 minutes at the rate of 50 times a minute. The solution was removed and sample was taken out, dried and weighed and calculated the amount of grease removed.

 

 5. Determination of percentage solid content

 A china dish was cleaned, dried and weighed. To this, an accurately weighed amount of formulated shampoo(4g) was added and the dish with shampoo was weighted. The china dish with shampoo was placed on a hot plate and heated until the liquid portion was evaporated. The weight of the solid contents of shampoo after complete drying was calculated.

 6. Stability study

 The optimized formulation was subjected to stability studies in accordance with ICH guidelines for accelerated testing with required modification. The sample from each formulation was taken and kept at room temperature for the duration of one month.              

7. Ash value

Total ash: About 2g of the powdered drug were accurately weighed and it is transferred to silica crucible which were previously weighed. It is then heated at a temperature in a muffle furnace until it is carbon free. The silica crucibles were taken out from the muffle furnace and placed in a desiccator. It is then weighed and percentage of total ash with reference to the air dried drug.

%Total ash =  Weight of ashWeight of sample

 X 100

 8. Extractive value

a. Water soluble extractive value

Accurately weighed about 5g of air dried powdered plant material were taken in 100ml chloroform water in a closed flask for 24 hours. During the first 6 hours it was shaken and filtered.25ml of the filtrate were evaporated to dryness in a flat bottomed petridish and dried 105°C and weighed. Then the percentage water soluble extractive values were calculated with reference to the air dried drugs.

 b. Alcohol soluble extractive value

Accurately weighed about 5g of air dried powdered plant material were taken in closed flask and 100ml of 95% ethanol was added into it. During the first 6 hours it was shaken frequently and filtered 25ml of the filterate were evaporated to dryness in a flat bottomed petridish and dried at 105°C and weighed. Then the percentage ethanol soluble extractive values were calculated with reference to the air dried drugs.

9. Wetting time

The canvas was cut into 1 inch diameter discs having an average weight of 0.44g. The disc was floated on the surface of shampoo solution of 1%w/v and the stopwatch started. The time required for the disc to begin to sink was measured accurately and noted as the wetting time.

C. General powder characteristics

1. Angle of repose

The material is poured through a funnel to form a cone. The tip of the funnel should be held close to the growing cone and slowly raised as the pile grows, to minimize the impact of falling particles. Stop pouring the material when the pile reaches a predetermined height or the base a predetermined width.

2.Bulk density

The bulk density of a powder is the ratio of the mass of an untapped powder sample and its volume including the contribution of the interparticulate void volume.

2. Tapped density

The tapped density is obtained by mechanically tapping a graduated measuring cylinder or vessel containing the powder  sample. After observing the initial powder volume or mass, the measuring cylinder or vessel is mechanically tapped, and volume or mass readings are taken until little further volume or mass change is observed.

 D. Invitro antidandruff activity evaluation (Agar well diffusion method)

• Preparation of pre-inoculum: Take the loopful of culture of fungus aseptically and transfer to sterilized and cooled 25ml sabouraud dextrose(broth) and mix well. Incubate the broth 25°
  c for 24hrs.
• Preparation of pour plates: A sabouraud dextrose agar(150ml) is autoclaved and poured to the already autoclaved plate and cooled to room temperature and allowed to solidify. The culture was spread on the agar surface aseptically by using sterilized cotton.
• Making wells on agar plates: Wells of 6mm in diameter were made aseptically on the agar plate by using a sterilized well digger. The shampoo samples(100ml) were aseptically added into the well by using a micropipette. The petriplates are kept in refrigerator (1hr) for the diffusion of substances from well into surrounding medium. During this time the growth of the organism is reduced. After 1hr, the plates were incubated in inverted condition at 37°
  c for 48hours.
• Measurement of the zone of inhibition: After 48hours, the plates were observed for the presence of inhibition of fungal growth and it was indicated in the form of a clear zone of inhibition around each well containing different samples. The size of the inhibitory zone was measured in mm.

Evaluation of dye

A. organoleptic evaluation

The developed Multipurpose poly herbal powder shampoo were evaluated for their organoleptic characters like colour, odour, texture.

B. Physico-chemical evaluation

1. pH

The formulated shampoo where diluted by using distilled water to produce a shampoo of 10%v/v concentration. The pH of the prepared shampoo was determined by using pH paper.

 2. Loss on drying

Loss on drying is the loss of mass expressed in present m/m. Two gram of the powder was weighed accurately and transferred into a dry petri dish. The petridish is placed in a dessicator for 2 days over calcium chloride crystals. Then the powder was taken and weighed accurately to find out the weight loss during drying.

3.Ash value

Total ash: About 2g of the powdered drug were accurately weighed and it is transferred to silica crucible which were previously weighed. It is then heated at a temperature in a muffle furnace until it is carbon free. The silica crucibles were taken out from the muffle furnace and placed in a desiccator. It is then weighed and percentage of total ash with reference to the air dried drug.

C. Stability study

The optimized formulation was subjected to stability studies in accordance with ICH guidelines for accelerated testing with required modification. The sample from each formulation was taken and kept at room temperature for the duration of one month. 

D. Phytochemical evaluation

1. Molisch’s test

Add the test sample to the test tube containing water and shake it to dissolve. Add, 2 to 3 drops of the Molisch reagent. Add concentrated sulphuric acid in drops along the sides of the test tube slowly. The formation of a purple ring indicates the presence of carbohydrates.

2.Fehling’s test

Add the sample in a dry test tube. Distilled water should be kept in another tube as control. Fehling's solution is to be added in the tubes. The tubes must be kept in water bath. Make observations and record if there is any development of red precipitate.

3.Hager’s test

Two milliliters of extract were treated with few drops of Hager's reagent. A yellow precipitate was formed, indicating the presence of alkaloids.

4.Volatile oil test

The powder on treatment with alcoholic solution of Sudan III develops red colour in the presence of volatile oils.

E. Rheological evaluation

1.Bulk density

The bulk density of a powder is the ratio of the mass of an untapped powder sample and its volume including the contribution of the interparticulate void volume.

2. Tapped density

The tapped density is obtained by mechanically tapping a graduated measuring cylinder or vessel containing the powder  sample. After observing the initial powder volume or mass, the measuring cylinder or vessel is mechanically tapped, and volume or mass readings are taken until little further volume or mass change is observed.

3.Angle of repose

The material is poured through a funnel to form a cone. The tip of the funnel should be held close to the growing cone and slowly raised as the pile grows, to minimize the impact of falling particles. Stop pouring the material when the pile reaches a predetermined height or the base a predetermined width.

4.Hausner’s ratio

Hausner's ratios (HR = ?TAP/?BULK, where, ?TAP is the tapped density of the powder and ?BULK is the bulk density of the powder) and particle size distribution can be used to measure the flow properties and the size distribution of the particles, respectively.

F.Invitro staining studies

An invitro staining study of an herbal formulation would involve evaluating the dye’s ability to stain hair strands. The main steps include:

• Sample preparation: Obtain a sample of the formulation and ensure it is standardized and well mixed. It’s important to use a consistent and representative sample throughout the study.
• Hair strand preparation: Obtain hair samples that are similar in colour, texture, and length. Cut the hair strands into equal lengths to ensure uniformity. If desired, pretreat the hair strands with a standard conditioner to simulate real-world conditions.
• Application of the powder shampoo: Apply the formulation to the hair strands using a standardized method, such as immersion or brushing. Ensure that the dye is applied uniformly across hair strands.
• Assesment of staining: The white hair strands were turns into black by the application of the formulation.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Authentication of collected plant materials

The collected plant materials were identified and authenticated by Dr. Delse P Sebastian M.Sc., Ph.D. Assistant Professor of Botany, St. JOSEPH’S COLLEGE ( AUTONOMOUS ), DEVAGIRI CALICUT.

Physicochemical parameters

After the collection of plant materials, they were shade dried and powdered coarsely in an electronic blender and stored in air tight containers until further use. Physicochemical parameters of the plants such as ash value, extractive values are tabulated below:

Physicochemical parameter of Morinda citrifolia, Eclipta prostate, Phyllantus embilica, Lawsonia inermis, Cyclea peltate, Clitoria ternatea

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The stability studies were carried out for the all the six formulated products and it is noticed that even after a month there is no any change in colour, odour and texture in any of the formulations. This shows that the products are stable.

Invitro staining study

Invitro staining studies were carried out for all the six formulated products by applying them over white hair strands and from this the formulation 1 shows better hair dye action.

CONCLUSION

The ultimate aim of the present work was to formulate multipurpose polyherbal powder shampoo with antidandruff as well as hair colouring activity. Dandruff is a common condition that causes the skin on the scalp to flake. It is caused by Malassezia yeasts and it  affect almost half of the population throughout the world. As a consequence of the use of chemical products an endeavour was made to formulate polyherbal multipurpose powder shampoo which is effective in terms of safety and control the greying and dandruff condition which helps to reduce the adverse effects and toxicity of the chemical drugs.

All the plant materials needed for the formulation were collected from different areas. We have formulated a total of six formulations and the collected plant materials were dried under shade drying before grinding. All these plant materials were also evaluated and then the dried plant materials were grinded thoroughly to form fine powders. After that the powdered materials were passed through sieve no. 120 to make the powder more fine.  The physicochemical parameters like ash vale, extractive vale of the powdered plant material were carried out. The formulations were prepared by simple mixing process of different amount of the plant materials. After formulating, they were evaluated. Evaluation tests such as organoleptic evaluation, physicochemical parameters, rheological properties, invitro staining studies, in vitro antidandruff activity were carried out for all the six formulated products and compared the actions among them. After carrying out all these evaluations it was found to be that the formulation 1 shows better antidandruff as well as hair dye action among the other 5 formulations. We have also carried out stability studies for all these six formulated products to check the stability of the products at different temperatures and it was noticed that all these formulations were stable even after a period of one month. However in the present work, herbal formulations reported to have more significant advantages over synthetic formulations. Hence we concluded that the formulated multipurpose polyherbal powder shampoo offers a natural, safe,effective option for antidandruff action as well as for colouring the hair.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We humbly owe the completion of this dissertation work to the almighty GOD who always guided, protected and least at very moment of our life with our steadfast love. This thesis has been kept on track and seen through to completion with the support and encouragement of numerous people.  The end of our thesis, it is a pleasant task to express our thanks to all those who contributed in many ways for the success of this study and it’s a memorable experience for us. We are grateful to the Management of Rajiv Gandhi Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, Trikaripur for supporting us throughout our dissertation period. It is a delightful moment for us to express our heartfelt gratitude and sincere thanks to our esteemed guide Prof. Dr. Roopesh P T, Department of Pharmaceutics, Rajiv Gandhi Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research for her constant guidance, personal attention valuable suggestions, encouragement, and support throughout our study.  We are deeply indebted to Prof. Dr. M. Paridhavi, M Pharm, Ph.D, FABAP, Principal, Rajiv Gandhi Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, for his valuable advice and support to make the study successful. We would like to gratefully thank Prof. Dr. Arun Kumar K.V, M. Pharm, Ph.D, Vice Principal, Rajiv Gandhi Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, for his academic support.  We also extent our sincere thanks to Shanthi Mam and other teaching staff, who helped us for the completion of this dissertation.  We also grateful to the Chairman and Directors of Rajiv Gandhi Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research for providing all necessary facilities for our study and for the constant support and encouragement.  Words cannot express our heartfelt appreciation to our most beloved Parents and Family members for their everlasting love, prayer, lifetime support and encouragement throughout our study. We take pleasure to appreciate the inspiration extended by all our Classmates. We would also like to say thanks to all the non- teaching staffs & library staff for their help in the completion of our study. Last but not least we express our sincere thanks to one and all who gave us constant encouragement and help throughout our educational career.

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