The term "cosmetic," derived from the Greek word “kosm?tikos,” signifies the art of arranging and decorating, reflecting humanity's longstanding relationship with beauty and self-adornment. This relationship dates back to prehistoric times, around 3000 BC, when early humans used natural colors for decoration, both to attract prey and to invoke fear in potential threats, including predators and rival tribes [1]. The evolution of cosmetics has been closely tied to fundamental human experiences—hunting, warfare, spirituality, and, eventually, medicine. In modern times, herbal cosmetics have emerged as a popular alternative, utilizing natural ingredients to enhance beauty while minimizing adverse effects associated with synthetic compounds. Defined as products formulated with a base of permissible cosmetic ingredients enriched with herbal elements, herbal cosmetics promise specific benefits for skin and hair care. The late 20th century saw the rise of "cosmeceuticals," a term coined to describe over-the-counter products that claim therapeutic benefits due to plant-based active ingredients, such as alpha-hydroxy acids and antioxidants [2]. These components not only improve skin elasticity and reduce aging signs but also protect against environmental damage. The condition of our skin and hair is influenced by various factors, including lifestyle, climate, and health practices. Harsh weather conditions can exacerbate skin issues, leading to dehydration, blemishes, and infections [3]. In this context, the knowledge preserved in traditional systems like Ayurveda plays a crucial role, utilizing a rich array of herbs to create effective and safe cosmetics that nourish and protect the skin. As consumers become increasingly aware of the potential harms of chemical-based cosmetics, the demand for herbal and natural products has surged. Herbal cosmetics, characterized by their phytochemical content, are believed to provide essential nutrients and promote skin health without the adverse effects often associated with synthetic alternatives [4]. This growing trend aligns with the regulatory frameworks established by the Drugs and Cosmetics Act, which mandates that cosmetic products must not penetrate beyond the skin's surface nor claim therapeutic properties [5]. This review article explores the landscape of herbal hair care cosmetics, emphasizing their historical roots, formulation principles, and the growing consumer shift towards natural solutions in beauty and personal care. By examining the interplay between tradition and modernity, we aim to highlight the significance of herbal cosmetics in contemporary skincare regimens [6].

HAIR STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION

       
           
       
Components of Hair:

• Follicle: The living part located beneath the skin.
• Hair Shaft: The non-living part that extends above the skin surface.

Parts of the Follicle:

• Upper Part: Comprises the infundibulum and isthmus.
• Lower Part: Includes the hair bulb and suprabulbar region.

The upper follicle remains constant, while the lower part undergoes continuous regeneration.

Layers of the Hair Shaft:

• Cuticle: Made of overlapping, flat cells. It protects inner layers and aids in removing debris from the scalp. A healthy cuticle is smooth, providing luster and moisture balance.
• Cortex: The thickest layer, made of tightly packed keratin filaments. It accounts for approximately 75% of hair weight and contains melanin, influencing hair color and texture (straight, wavy, curly).
• Medulla: The innermost layer, found in coarser hair types. Composed of softer structural proteins and amino acids.

Glands Associated with Hair:

• Sebaceous Glands: Produce oils that keep hair moisturized.
• Apocrine Glands: Open into hair follicles in certain areas.

Arrector Pili Muscle: Located near the follicle, this muscle causes hair to stand on end in response to cold or stress, aiding in thermoregulation.

Functions of Hair:

• Provides protection against environmental factors, including temperature changes and UV radiation.
• Serves important social and aesthetic roles in human life.

Hair Health:

Maintaining healthy hair requires proper care of both the follicle and the shaft. External factors can significantly affect hair texture and overall health. Understanding the structure and function of hair is essential for effective hair care and treatment. Addresses common issues like hair loss, dryness, and damage effectively.

This structured format presents the information clearly and concisely, emphasizing the key points about hair anatomy and function [5] [6].

HAIR PROBLEMS

Hair Loss:

Hair loss affects both men and women and can be caused by various factors such as stress, hormonal changes (including menopause), medical conditions, and certain hair products. Common causes include male pattern baldness, predominantly affecting men, and hormonal fluctuations in women.

Dry Hair:

Over-washing hair can lead to dryness by stripping it of its natural oils. Many people wash their hair excessively, resulting in a lack of moisture.

Split Ends:

Split ends occur due to over-brushing, frequent perming, excessive heat styling, and insufficient conditioning.

Oily Hair:

Excess sebum production from the scalp can lead to oily or greasy hair, often caused by overactive sebaceous glands.

Frizzy Hair:

Frizz is typically caused by a lack of moisture in the hair and can also be hereditary.

Dull Hair:

Damage from chemicals or heat styling, along with environmental pollutants, can cause hair to appear dull.

Heat-Damaged Hair:

Frequent use of styling tools like curling irons and flat irons can lead to heat damage.

Color-Damaged Hair:

Chemical hair coloring can make hair porous, leading to breakage and fragility.

Gray Hair:

While some embrace gray hair as a sign of maturity, others may find it more brittle and unmanageable.

Scalp Issues:

• Dandruff: Characterized by the flaking of dead skin cells from the scalp.
• Seborrheic Dermatitis: This condition involves itchy, flaky, and irritated skin on the scalp.
• Ringworm (Tinea Capitis): A fungal infection of the scalp caused by Trichophyton rubrum.
• Scalp Psoriasis: Marked by raised reddish patches, this condition can extend to other areas of the head.
• Folliculitis: Inflammation of hair follicles on the scalp.
• Head Lice: A contagious infestation caused by the parasite Pediculus humanus capitis, which lives on the scalp.

Hair Loss Causes and Symptoms

Hair loss can stem from various factors, including:

• Pregnancy
• Sudden weight loss
• High fever
• Acute illness
• Emotional stress
• Genetic predisposition
• Hormonal changes and medical conditions
• Certain medications
• Radiation therapy

Symptoms of Hair Loss:

• Gradual Thinning: This often occurs at the top of the head, particularly as people age. Men may notice a receding hairline, while women may see a widening part.
• Circular Bald Spots: Some may experience patchy bald spots, which can also occur on beards and eyebrows, often accompanied by discomfort.
• Sudden Hair Loosening: Trauma or stress can cause hair to loosen, resulting in noticeable thinning rather than bald patches [7].

HERBAL HAIR CARE COSMETICS

1. Herbal Hair Oil
2. Herbal Hair Shampoo
3. Herbal Hair Conditioner
4. Herbal Hair Color

HERBAL HAIR OIL:

Herbal hair oils often use various vegetable oils known for their nourishing benefits. Here are some key ingredients and their effects:

• Aloe Vera

Aloe vera gel is rich in anthraquinones, resins, tannins, and polysaccharides, along with vitamins A, B, C, E, and B12, enzymes, and amino acids. It effectively promotes hair growth and reduces hair loss, thanks to aloe emodin, which stimulates hair follicles. Additionally, its properties help improve scalp circulation and exfoliate dead skin cells, giving the skin a youthful appearance. Aloe vera is also beneficial for soothing sunburns and insect bites [8, 9].

• Fenugreek
  Fenugreek acts as a natural conditioner for hair. Its high protein content supports hair growth, while the flavonoids it contains provide antioxidant benefits, helping to prevent hair loss. The seed extract is often used as a gentle hair cleanser [10, 11].
• Coconut Oil

Coconut oil can be used alone or as a base for various hair oils and treatments. It strengthens hair and prevents dryness, while its vitamins, minerals, and amino acids promote hair growth and hydrate the scalp [12, 13].

• Olive Oil

Rich in triolein, tripalmitin, trilinolein, squalene, and tocopherol, olive oil offers softening and moisturizing benefits for hair. It is commonly used in cosmetics, including lotions and shampoos, as a skin and hair conditioner [14, 15].

• Amla
  Amla is packed with vitamin C, tannins, essential minerals (like calcium, phosphorus, and iron), and amino acids. It aids in hair growth and minimizes hair loss due to its antibacterial and antioxidant properties, promoting healthy, shiny hair [16].
• Shikakai
  Shikakai contains a variety of beneficial compounds, including lupeol and oleanolic acid. It is primarily used as a natural hair cleanser and is effective in controlling dandruff [17].
• Sapindus (Reetha)

Reetha is rich in vitamins A, D, E, and K, along with saponins and mucilage. It is known for promoting hair growth and reducing dandruff. The fruit's outer coating serves as a natural shampoo and is a common ingredient in herbal hair care products [17].

• Hibiscus
  Hibiscus is loaded with calcium, phosphorus, iron, and vitamins B1 and C. It helps stimulate thicker hair growth and prevents premature graying. Its antioxidant properties, derived from flavonoids and anthocyanins, also protect against UV damage and rejuvenate hair [18].
• Sesame Oil

Sesame oil contains natural antioxidants like sesamin and sesamol. It is a popular ingredient in hair oils and cosmetics, known for its nourishing properties [19].

• Jojoba Oil

Jojoba oil is made up of esters, acids, alcohols, tocopherol, and phytosterols, which help reduce hair loss, moisturize the hair, and maintain pH balance. It is widely used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and as a carrier oil for fragrances [14].

• Argan Oil

Argan oil is rich in essential fatty acids and vitamin E, known for its ability to hydrate and soften hair, reduce frizz, and promote a healthy shine.

• Avocado Oil

Avocado oil is packed with vitamins A, D, and E, and is excellent for moisturizing and nourishing hair, helping to strengthen and promote hair growth.

• Rosemary Oil

Rosemary oil is renowned for its stimulating properties, promoting hair growth and improving scalp circulation. It is often used to combat dandruff and improve hair thickness.

• Tea Tree Oil

Tea tree oil has antibacterial and antifungal properties, making it effective for treating dandruff and maintaining a healthy scalp.

• Castor Oil

Castor oil is rich in ricinoleic acid, which enhances circulation to the scalp and promotes hair growth. It also adds moisture and shine.

• Grapeseed Oil

Grapeseed oil is lightweight and high in linoleic acid, which helps moisturize hair without weighing it down. It also provides a protective barrier against damage [15].

Each of these oils brings unique benefits to hair care, enhancing strength, moisture, and overall health.

HERBAL HAIR SHAMPOO

Herbal cosmetics are crafted from a blend of bioactive ingredients derived from plants, offering dual benefits: they not only serve as cosmetic products for skincare and haircare but also enhance biological functions through their phytochemical properties. These natural compounds contribute to healthier skin and hair, making herbal formulations a popular choice [20].

In developing herbal cosmetics, plants can be utilized in various forms, including:

• Total Extracts: These include the full range of plant compounds.
• Isolated Active Components: Extracts such as aloe vera gel or various teas.
• Selective Extracts: Includes specific plant parts like wheat germ or ginkgo biloba.
• Individual Natural Molecules: Compounds such as vitamins and coenzyme Q10.

The term "herbal extracts" refers to these derived substances, a practice rooted in ancient traditions documented in texts such as the Vedas and Unani scriptures. In recent years, there has been a notable shift towards herbalism, as people increasingly seek natural alternatives to conventional chemical medicines, which may come with side effects. This trend is particularly prominent in India, where numerous indigenous herbs are harnessed for their beneficial properties in the cosmetic industry and beauty salons. Many herbal products are still used in their raw forms, dried or powdered using traditional methods like mortar and pestle. However, this approach can lead to formulations containing a high proportion of inactive ingredients, which may dilute the effectiveness of the product. To ensure efficacy, it is essential to concentrate the active compounds derived from herbal extracts [21].

Common Ingredients and Benefits in Herbal Shampoos

When it comes to herbal shampoos, the focus is on harnessing the natural properties of various plants to promote hair health:

• Neem: Known for its antibacterial and antifungal properties.
• Hibiscus: Helps condition and strengthen hair.
• Aloe Vera: Celebrated for its moisturizing and soothing qualities.

Herbal shampoos often incorporate essential oils from plants like rosemary and tea tree, which can stimulate hair growth and maintain scalp health. The formulation of herbal shampoos emphasizes gentle cleansing without harsh chemicals, making them suitable for various hair types and conditions. By utilizing the natural properties of these ingredients, herbal shampoos not only cleanse the hair but also nourish the scalp, promote shine, and reduce issues like dandruff or hair loss. Furthermore, as consumers become more aware of the environmental impact of their choices, the demand for sustainably sourced, herbal-based hair care products continues to grow. This reflects a broader movement towards natural living, emphasizing the importance of integrating effective, plant-based solutions into daily beauty routines [22].

HERBAL HAIR CONDITIONER:

Hair conditioners are essential for enhancing the manageability and appearance of hair, reducing static, and adding shine. These products cater to various hair needs based on individual conditions and preferences. Recently, herbal hair conditioners have gained popularity due to their natural ingredients, which offer numerous benefits for hair health. [23]

1. Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadensis miller): Aloe Vera is highly valued for its high collagen content, often used to soothe sun-exposed skin. It contains vitamins that help repair sun-damaged hair, and its cooling properties alleviate scalp irritation, making it a staple in many hair care formulations.
2. Flax Seed (Linum usitatissimum): Rich in antioxidants, flaxseed oil promotes hair growth and strengthens hair from the roots, helps prevent split ends, and reduces premature greying. Additionally, flaxseed is effective in combating dandruff and hair thinning.
3. Beetroot (Beta vulgaris): Beetroot prevents premature balding and hair loss while offering a natural smoothing effect. It is beneficial for alleviating itchy scalp conditions and fighting dandruff, with its natural pigments imparting a subtle tint to the hair.
4. Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis): Known for its potential to stimulate hair growth, hibiscus effectively controls dandruff and rejuvenates and conditions hair. It nourishes the scalp, resulting in healthier hair strands, and is often included in hair care formulations for its moisturizing and strengthening effects.
5. Amla (Phyllanthus emblica): Rich in Vitamin C and tannins, amla enhances calcium absorption, benefiting bones, teeth, nails, and hair. It maintains natural hair color and prevents premature greying. Its antibacterial and antioxidant properties promote healthy, lustrous hair.
6. Almond Oil: Known for its nourishing and hydrating properties, almond oil softens and strengthens hair, offers sun protection, and controls frizzy hair by deeply hydrating the strands. It also adds a beautiful shine, improving the overall health and appearance of the hair.
7. Glycerine: Glycerine acts as a natural humectant, drawing moisture from the air to keep hair hydrated. It deeply moisturizes, reduces split ends, promotes growth, alleviates scalp itching, and repairs damage .

By come natural components, herbal hair conditioners address various hair concerns, including dryness, frizz, and damage. They enhance hair aesthetics and contribute to its overall health, making them a preferred choice for consumers seeking effective and natural hair care solutions. This synergy of ingredients in herbal formulations leads to shiny, manageable, and healthy hair, appealing to an audience looking for alternatives to synthetic products. As demand for natural hair care rises, herbal conditioners stand out as a holistic approach to nurturing and enhancing hair beauty.

HERBAL HAIR COLOUR

In recent years, natural herbal dyes have surged in popularity as alternatives to chemical-based hair dyes, which are often associated with skin-related health issues. With a growing emphasis on beauty and personal care, more individuals are opting for herbal solutions to achieve healthier hair. Around 70% of people over the age of 50 face challenges related to balding and graying, with some experiencing these signs of aging even earlier. Graying commonly begins around the age of 40, typically starting at the temples and progressing to areas like the beard and chest. While genetics largely influence when graying starts, factors such as illness, certain medications, and stress can also lead to premature hair depigmentation. [26] Natural herbal dyes have gained popularity as alternatives to chemical-based dyes, often linked to skin-related health issues. With a growing emphasis on beauty and personal care, more individuals are opting for herbal solutions for healthier hair. Approximately 70% of people over 50 face issues with balding and greying, with some experiencing these signs earlier. Graying typically begins around age 40, starting at the temples and spreading to areas like the beard and chest. While genetics largely influence graying onset, factors like illness, medications, and stress can also lead to premature hair depigmentation. Since ancient times, nature been used for coloring textiles, derived from various plant parts—roots, stems, barks, leaves, berries, and flowers. The increasing demand for herbal remedies is driven by their natural benefits and low risk of side effects. Ayurvedic herbs such as Amla, Bhringraj, Henna, Mandara, Jatamansi, Reetha, Sariva, curry leaves, and Methi seeds have been traditionally used for hair coloring and promoting growth. Before synthetic dyes, plant extracts served as hair dyes across Europe and Asia. Indigo, initially used for fabric dyeing, could be mixed with henna to produce shades from light brown to black. In contrast, chemical dyes are known to cause side effects like skin irritation, allergic reactions, hair breakage, and skin discoloration. Long-term use of chemicals may lead to severe issues like dry scalp, hair loss, and even skin cancer. In India, henna has historically beecoloring hair and decorating palms, especially during weddings and special occasions. Other herbs like Kikar, Bihi, Bhringraj, Patnag, Akhrot, Narra, Jaborandi, Jatamansi, Amla, Kuth, Giloe, and Behera are also prominent in hair care formulations for dyeing. Henna, significant in cultural traditions, has been used since the Bronze Age for hair coloring and decorative purposes during celebrations. Herbal dyes are advantageous due to their accessibility, affordability, safety, and effectiveness, with minimal side effects. In today’s eco-conscious society, the revival of natural dyes is evident not only in hair care but also in textiles and food products. This shift towards natural alternatives highlights a growing appreciation for their benefits, promoting a sustainable and health-focused approach to beauty. As consumers increasingly seek safer options, herbal dyes are set to play a vital role in the future of hair care, enhancing both aesthetic appeal and overall well-being. [28]