The quest for effective and safe skincare solutions has led to an increasing interest in natural and herbal cosmetics. Among these, facial scrubs play a crucial role in maintaining healthy skin by exfoliating dead cells, unclogging pores, and enhancing skin texture1. The development and assessment of a multi-herbal facial scrub represent a promising approach to harnessing the benefits of various plant-based ingredients in a single formulation. Traditional cosmetics often rely on synthetic compounds that can sometimes lead to adverse effects, prompting a shift towards natural alternatives2-3. Herbal cosmetics, derived from plant sources, are valued for their therapeutic properties and minimal side effects. These products typically include active components such as antioxidants, antimicrobial agents, and anti-aging compounds, which contribute to their efficacy. A multi-herbal facial scrub, which integrates a blend of these beneficial herbs, aims to address multiple skin concerns, including acne, wrinkles, and excessive sebum production4. In recent years, there has been growing recognition of the potential of herbal ingredients such as fenugreek, turmeric, aloe vera, and amla in skincare. Fenugreek is known for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties5, making it effective in treating acne. Turmeric is renowned for its potent antioxidant and anti-aging6 effects, while aloe vera and amla provide soothing and rejuvenating benefits7. When combined, these ingredients can offer a synergistic effect, enhancing the overall efficacy of the facial scrub. The formulation of a multi-herbal facial scrub involves not only selecting the right blend of herbs but also integrating them into an effective delivery system8. Using a suitable carrier can offer a stable medium that maintains the integrity of active ingredients while providing a pleasant application experience9.  This study focuses on the development and evaluation of a facial scrub that combines several herbal ingredients. The aim is to create a product that not only exfoliates but also offers additional skincare benefits through the properties of its herbal constituents. By assessing the physical, chemical, and efficacy aspects of the scrub, this research seeks to contribute valuable insights into the formulation and potential benefits of multi-herbal skincare products.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Procurement of Raw materials: 

All the plant materials such as fenugreek, coffee, coconut oil, rose water, turmeric aloe vera, amla, and honey were procured from the local market and authenticated through the Head, Department of Botany, RTMNU Nagpur University Nagpur.

Plant profile:

Fenugreek seeds

Fenugreek seeds come from the plant Trigonella foenum-graecum, a member of the Fabaceae family. Seeds contain saponins, alkaloids (e.g., trigonelline), flavonoids, and essential oils10. Fenugreek seeds are traditionally used to aid digestion, manage blood sugar levels, and enhance lactation.

Coffee

Coffee is derived from the seeds of the Coffea plant, commonly Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora (robusta). Major constituents include caffeine, chlorogenic acids, lipids, and carbohydrates. Coffee is traditionally consumed for its stimulant effects, improving mental alertness and reducing fatigue11.

Coconut Oil:

Coconut oil is extracted from the mature fruit of the Cocos nucifera palm. It contains predominantly saturated fats, including medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs) like lauric acid, capric acid, and caprylic acid. Coconut oil is used for moisturizing skin, conditioning hair, and as a base in various traditional and cosmetic preparations12.

Rose Water

Rose water is derived from the distillation of rose petals, typically from Rosa damascena. It contains essential oils, phenolic compounds, and antioxidants such as citronellol and geraniol. Rose water is used for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties in skincare and as a flavoring agent in culinary applications13.

Turmeric

Turmeric comes from the rhizomes of the Curcuma longa plant, a member of the Zingiberaceae family. Key constituents include curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, and bisdemethoxycurcumin, along with essential oils. Turmeric is used for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, supporting digestive health and treating skin conditions14.

Aloe vera

Aloe vera is obtained from the Aloe barbadensis miller plant leaves. It contains polysaccharides, glycoproteins, and various vitamins and minerals.  Aloe vera is used for its soothing and moisturizing properties in skincare, and internally for digestive health and laxative effects15.

Amla

Amla, or Indian gooseberry, comes from the fruit of the Phyllanthus emblica tree. It is rich in vitamin C, tannins, flavonoids, and polyphenols. Amla boosts immunity, supports digestive health, and promotes healthy skin and hair16.

Honey

Honey is produced by bees from the nectar of various flowering plants. It contains sugars (mainly fructose and glucose), enzymes, vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. Honey is used for its antibacterial and soothing properties, treating sore throats, and wounds, and as a natural sweetener17.

Chemicals and additives:

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS):

In cosmetics, SLS acts as a surfactant and emulsifier, helping to create a lather and stabilize products by mixing ingredients with different solubilities for a smoother texture and easier application.

Methyl Paraben:

Methyl paraben is a common preservative in cosmetics, preventing microbial growth to extend product shelf life. It is also found naturally in some fruits and used as a preservative in food.

Glycerin:

Glycerin serves as a humectant and skin conditioning agent in cosmetics, attracting moisture to the skin and improving texture, while also functioning as a viscosity modifier and skin protectant.

Formulation of Facial Scrub:

To formulate a facial scrub using fenugreek, coffee, coconut oil, rose water, turmeric, aloe vera, amla, and honey, grind fenugreek seeds into a fine powder and mix it with freshly ground coffee for added exfoliation. In a bowl, blend the fenugreek coffee mix with a teaspoon of turmeric and a tablespoon of honey to form a paste. Add a few drops of coconut oil for moisturizing properties and mix well. Incorporate a tablespoon of aloe vera gel for its soothing effects and a splash of rose water to balance the consistency and enhance skin hydration. Finally, combine amla powder with the mixture rich in Vitamin C and antioxidants. Apply the scrub to damp skin in gentle circular motions, then rinse off with lukewarm water, and pat dry for refreshed, glowing skin.

Table 1: Formula For The Preparation Of Polyherbal Scrub

To evaluate the appearance of a facial scrub, follow these steps:

1. Appearance:

Visual Inspection: Observe the scrub under natural light or white artificial light. Note the primary color and any variations or specks. Document the color description (e.g., yellowish-brown, beige) and compare it to a standard or reference color if available.

Smell Test:

Gently open the container and take a cautious sniff. Identify and describe the scent (e.g., sweet, herbal, chemical). Ensure the odor is characteristic and pleasant, as it can influence user experience.

Consistency Check: Assess the physical state of the scrub (e.g., semisolid, gel-like). Determine if it holds its form or easily deforms when handled.

Texture Examination: Use a spatula or clean finger to scoop a small amount of the scrub. Check how smoothly it spreads and if it maintains a uniform texture without lumps or separation.

Visual Uniformity:

Look for consistency in the appearance throughout the product. Ensure there are no visible particles settling at the bottom or floating inconsistently.

2. pH:

pH of the prepared scrub was evaluated using pH paper. A small amount of scrub was applied to the pH paper. The pH was found to be in the range of 4-6.

3. Spreadability:

Used to determine the spreadability of the gel on the skin. A small quantity of the sample was placed on a glass slide, with another slide placed above it. Weight was applied to the top slide, and the spread was measured18.

It is calculated by using the formula:

S = m × L/t

S= spreadability

M= weight placed on a slide

 L= length of glass slide

T= time taken in seconds

4. Irritability:

A small amount of gel was applied to the skin and left for a few minutes. It was found to be non-irritable.

5. Washability:

A small quantity of gel was applied to the skin and washed off with water after a few minutes. It was found to be washable with water.

6. Grittiness:

Exfoliants require abrasive properties; fenugreek seeds were powdered and sieved. A few gritty particles were observed in the preparation.

7. Foaming Index:

1 gm of formulation was added to 5 ml of water in a test tube and shaken for 5 minutes. After allowing it to stand for 15 minutes, foam height was observed19. If the foam height was less than 1 cm, the foaming index was less than 100. If more than 1 cm, it was over 1000.

Foaming index =1000/a

Where

a = in ml in the test tube showing 1cm height

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

The facial scrub exhibited a yellowish-brown color, which was visually appealing and indicative of its natural ingredients. The odour resembled maple syrup, with a sweet and pleasant aroma. The pH level, ranging between 4 and 6, was within a suitable range for skin care, suggesting compatibility with the skin’s natural acidity. The scrub was non-irritant, providing a gentle experience upon application. It felt slightly greasy, which is characteristic of the inclusion of coconut oil. Despite this, it was stable and maintained its semisolid consistency throughout storage. The scrub demonstrated uniform spreadability, ensuring an even application on the skin. It was easily washable, which facilitated convenient use and cleanup. Visually and by touch, the scrub was smooth and consistent, with no noticeable gritty particles. It was also easily removable, contributing to an overall user-friendly experience.