Tradition to Translational Science: A Review of Modern Applications of Ayurvedic Formulations in Skin Care

Abstract

Ayurvedic cosmeceuticals dates back to the Indus valley civilization and is being used in human society from ancient time. It is now gaining importance in the beautification and to cure the skin ailments. In last 3-4 decades the use of cosmetics has increased exponentially not only among female but also in male population and play an important role in the FMCG sector. In the ancient classical texts of Ayurveda there are several references of numerous medicinal plants and mode of applications of their processed formulation for enhancing complexion, treating acne, treating dark patches, curing boils and carbuncles, etc. Consideration in this field can be helpful in making the herbs more acceptable, precious, life saving and economy promoter for the mankind. This review made a humble effort to make a monograph of ayurvedic plants that were mentioned by ayurvedic luminaries in the field of skincare.

Keywords

Introduction

This review examines various aspects of cosmetic pre-formulation so that it is expected to be able to provide benefits as a consideration in preformulating specifically on cosmetics, thereby capable of producing optimal cosmetics and providing a thorough understanding. The desire to always look attractive has become a trend in today’s society. Through an attractive appearance, someone may increase self-confidence. Cosmetics are chosen to support one’s performance. However, in reality there are many cosmetic products that can actually endanger the users. Studies showed that the hazardous material in cosmetics may lead to cases of breast cancer (Cardoso et al., 2016) .

 On a mild scale, allergies caused by the use of harmful cosmetics irritate the skin of the user (Khan and Alam, 2019) . Therefore, screening the ingredients of cosmetic products before use is an important step. This work is expected to become a basis for producers in making cosmetics to determine what aspects that need attention. Pre-formulation studies can be carried out before the cosmetic manufacturing process to ensure the feasibility of a safe product for long-term use. 1.1 Cosmetics Recently, cosmetics have been a necessity for men and women. The need for cosmetics is often associated with the assumption relating to physical attractiveness. In general, cosmetics are ingredients used to adorn the face area such as cheeks, lips, even the eyes. They contain many chemical ingredients that can skin contact, enter the body through inhalation, or, for lipsticks, accidentally swallowed (Park et al., 2015) .

Daily use of cosmetics may lead to a local skin problem, which is a systemic effect from the absorption of those chemical ingredients into the skin (Mesko et al., 2020). The need for cosmetics in all kinds of people resulted in cosmetic manufacturers compete to gain a place in the market. However, many manufacturers produce cosmetics not up to standard. Continuous use of harmful cosmetics can jeopardize health. the skin (Mesko et al., 2020). The need for cosmetics in all kinds of people resulted in cosmetic manufacturers compete to gain a place in the market. However, many manufacturers produce cosmetics not up to standard. Continuous use of harmful cosmetics can jeopardize health.

Preparation of Topical Cosmetics If used as a cleanser, to beautify the skin or hair seen from the perspective of esthetics, then preparation is called cosmetics. However, if the objective is not only to beautify, but also affect the body therapeutically, then it is considered a drug. The FDA (Food Drug Administration) has explained that cosmetics are different than drugs. A drug is a substance, or a combination of substances, intended for the diagnosis, alleviate, cure or prevent a disease or to affect the function of the body.

Meanwhile, cosmetic is a substance, or a combination of substances, used smeared, poured, dipped, sprayed, or inserted into or on the body to clean, beautify, increase attractiveness, or improve the appearance without affecting the structure or function of the body (Turnbull, 2018) . The topical formulation is aimed to target skin uses in various cosmetics, protection, and therapeutical use (Hadgraft and Lane, 2016) .

Most cosmetic preparations are formulated through emulsiffcation. However, this method is thermodynamically unstable. Polymers, carbomers or fatty alcohol are added to the cosmetic to stabilize the preparation. Any damage to the preparation can change the composition of the cosmetics and cause health problems and reduce product appeal. The use of preservative and antimicrobial agents can be an alternative to cope with this problem. Although many preservatives work on the microbial cell membrane, the mechanism can affect the stability of the cosmetic, thus the addition of preservatives should be considered (Hayase, 2017) .

Anatomy of the Human Skin Skin

is an organ with important functions to the body, including protection, thermoregulation, and immune response. The cross-section of human skin anatomy can be seen in Figure 1. The outer skin layer is an epidermis, a tissue that continuously undergoes regeneration. Epidermal regeneration occurs because the epidermis does not contain vascularization, thus no nutrition to maintain tissue survivability. There are five layers of the epidermis. The order from the outer layer to the inner layer is the stratum corneum, stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum, and germinative or basal layer (Karadzovska et al., 2013; Mathes et al., 2014; Notman and Anwar, 2013). The cells in the stratum corneum are known as corneocytes.

These cells are solid, functionally dead, nucleated, and filled with keratin. The composition of the stratum corneum is analogous to the wall of “brick and mortar”. The inner structure, the lipid cells in between are like mortars and corneocytes are like bricks. Lipid forms several bilayers arranged surrounding the corneocytes. Between lipid, cells lie a combination of cholesterol, ceramide, fatty acid, cholesteryl ester, and a small amount of cholesterol sulfate (Anissimov et al., 2013; Barry, 2001; El Maghraby et al., 2008; Hansen et al., 2013).

 The stratum corneum is composed of 15 to 20 layers of corneocytes. In a dry state, it has a thickness of 10 to 15 µm. While hydrated, the stratum corneum swells and can reach 40 µm, which showed increased permeability. This provides a characteristic of barrier and resistance to water. The corneum layer is known as the main layer restricting the absorption of chemical substances through the skin (Anissimov et al., 2013; Cevc and Vierl, 2010; El Maghraby et al., 2008; Hansen et al., 2013). There is a study that the elevation of stratum corneum drastically increases skin permeability, while the elevation of all epidermis increases skin permeability to 1 to 2 times. Therefore, each layer of the skin affects permeability to a certain degree (Andrews et al., 2013) .

Figure 2 describes the structure of the skin anatomy (the middle gure is a 3D structure of human skin episcopically). Hypodermis (white); reticular dermis (yellow); papillary dermis (blue); epidermis (pink). The scale bar represents 200 ????m. Figure 2(a) Skin surface topography in a different part of the body. The form of different skin subunits. (i) the volar surface of the finger, (ii) back of the hand, (iii) stomach. Figure 2(b) (i) Illustration of the epidermis; formation of hexagonal-shaped corneocytes group from the basal epithelia replication. (ii) Cross-section through the human epidermis. Ceramide-rich epidermal layer looks clear above and the dermis looks white because of high collagen. Figure 2(c) (i) skin cross-section to the reticular dermis level. (ii) An episcopic image of the dermis showed intertwined orientation of collagen bers. The scale represents 200 ????m. Figure 2(d) Flexible and lose microvacuolar collagen tissue. Figure 2(e) Hypodermal fat image as seen through dierent images. (i) Hypodermal fat as seen from endoscopic surgery in living tissues that shows yellow lumps of fat. (ii) hypodermal fat as seen from excitation of two fluorescence

SKIN CARE

through Ayurveda According to Ayurveda healthy skin is a result of overall health condition of individuals and prescribes numerous skin care treatment that needs to be pursued at every stage of life. The function of ayurvedic herbs is to purify skin & eliminate vitiated Tridoshas (Vitiated Humor) from the body as they are mainly responsible for skin disorders & other diseases. Several herbs have been mentioned in Ayurveda which can be used to obtain healthy skin and glowing complexion. Specific measurement for the enhancement of different aspect of beauty and disease conditions in relation to skin are mentioned in ancient Ayurvedic texts, they are described in brief.

CHARAKA SAMHITA

In contest of skin disorder Charaka described about 18 type of kustha (obstinate skin disease including leprosy) which included vipadika (rhagdes), dadru (ringworm), pama (scabies) etc in Chikitsa Sthan and also in Nidan sthan5 . Apart from this there are references of ten drug as Varnya (complexion promoting)- in Sutrasthan viz. Chandana (Santalum album), Punnaga (Calophyllum inophyllum), Padmaka (Prunus cerasoides), Useer (Vetiveria zizanioides), Madhuka (Glycyrrhiza glabra), Manjistha (Rubia cordifolia), Sariva (Hamidesmus indicus), Paysya (Ipomoea digitata), Sita (white variety of Cynodon dactylon), Lata (black variety of C.dactylon) .

SUSHRUTA SAMHITA

 In the Kshudra roga chikitsa (treatment of minor disease) many of the skin care treatments are documented.

Arumsika

(Eczema of face and scalp)- Blood should be let out and the lesion are washed with decoction of Nimba (Azadirachta indica) then applied paste of Hartal(Orpiment), Haldi (Curcuma longa), Patola patra (Trichosanthes dioica leaves), paste of Mulethi (Glycyrrhiza glabra), Nilotpala (Nymphaea nouchali), Erand (Ricinus communis) and Bhringaraj (Eclipta alba) paste. Vyanga (black spot), Nilika (Naevus) - puncturing of the vein is done in the forehead and rubbed roughly with Smudra Phena (Cuttle fish bone) and applied the paste of bark of kshira-vriksha (plant containing sap) or paste of Bala (Sida cordifolia), Atibala (Abutilon indicum) Yastimadhu (Glycyrrhiza glabra), Haldi (Curcuma longa) or of Arkpuspi (Holostemma rheedie), Aguru (Aquilaria agallocha), Kaliyaka (Colchicinum fenestratum) and Gairika(Haematite). Yauvana Pidika (pimples/acne)- Applying the Paste of Vacha(Acorus calamus), Lodhra (Symplocos racemosa), Sendha (Rock-salt) and Sarso (Brassica campestris) or of paste of Dhanyaka(Coriandrum sativum), Vacha, Lodhra and Kuth (Saussurea lappa). Padadari (Rhagades)- Vein puncture should be done after fomentation and anointing, paste of Madhuchista (Bees wax), Vasa (fat), powder of Sarjika kshar (sodium salts), Yava kshar (potassium salts) and Gairika (Haematite) added with ghee and applied to the feet.

Astang Hridayam

There are three type of Mukhlepa (formulation applied on face) viz. for removal of dosha, for removal of poison and varnyakara(complexion promoting). Mode of application of paste over face, duration and precaution were also elaborately mentioned. Furthermore application of paste varies according to the season.

Hemant

(Dewy season)-Paste of seed of Ber (Ziziphus jujuba), Vasaka root (Adhatoda vasica), Savara Lodhra (Symplocos racemosa or paniculata) Sarson (Brassica campestris) were applied.

Shisir

(Winter)-Kateri root (Solanum surattense), blacktil (Sesamum indicum),bark of Daruhaldi (Berberis aristata), Barly (Hordeum vulgare) without husk.

Basant

(Spring)-Paste of root of Dabh (Imperata cylindrica), Chandan (Santalum album), Khas (Vetiveria zizanioidis), Shiris (Albizzia lebbeck), Saunf (Foeniculum vulgare), chawal (Oriza sativa).

Grisma

(Summer)- Kumud(Nymphaea nouchali), Utpal (Nymphoea stellata), Khas (Vetiveria zizanioidis), Durva (Cynodon dactylon), Yastimadhu (Glycyrrhiza glabra), Chandan (Santlum album).

Varsa

(Rainy season)- Kaliyaka (Coscinium fenestratum), Til (Sesamum indicum) khas (Vetiveria zizanioidis), Jatamansi (Nordostachys Jatamansi), Tagar (Valeriana wallichii), Padmk (Nelumbo nucifera).

Sarat

(Autumn)- Talis (Abies webbiana), Etkat (Sesbania cannabina), Pundarik (Nelumbo nucifera), Muledi (Glycyrrhiza glabra), Khas (Vetiveria zizanioidis), Tagar (Vetiveria wallichii) and Agru (Aquilari agallocha).

Vagbhatta mentioned the benefits of Mukhalepa as- ‘Mukhalepanashilanam dridam bhavati darshanam, Vadanam chaprimlanam shlakshanam tamrasopamam’.(22/22) - which signifies that the persons who are habitual to application of paste of drug over face ,the vision become keen, the face never dull and glows like lotus flower.

Astang Samgrah

Mukhadusika chikitsa (Acne)- In Mukhadusika, application of warm paste of Lodhra and Tuvarika (Hydnocarpus laurifolia) or leaves of Vata (Ficus bengalensis) and narikela shukti (coconut shell) or of Saindhava, Vacha, Aksibhesaja (Sabar lodhra -Symplocos racemosa or paniculata) and Sidharthaka(Brassica compestris) are prescribed.

 Lancchana

 (Patches on the face), vyanga (hyper pigmentation) and nilika(Naevus) chikitsa- In this group of diseases, the nearest vein should be cut and the area covered with the paste of bark of trees having milky sap or that of Bala (Sida cordifolia), Atibala(Abutilon indicum), Madhuka (Glycyrrhiza glabra) and Haridra or of Madhuka, Aguru, Payasya( Ipomoea digitata) and kaliyaka (Coscinium fenestratum). Tender fruit of Kapittha (Feronia limonia), Tinduka (Diospyros peregrine) and Rajani (Curcuma longa), root of Amalika (Tamarindus indica) and Sukaradamstra (teeth of pig) are also added with honey and ghee.

 Yogaratnakar

In kshudra rog (minor diseases), nidan chikitsa prakaran (chapter dealing with diagnosis and prognosis) there are 44 types of minor diseases of which some are related to skin care.

 Arumsika-

In Arumsika application of the paste of Nilkamal (Nymphaea stellata), Amlaki (Emblica officinalis), Yasthimadhu (Glycyrrhiza glabra) in equal amount are prescribed. Triphaladi tail and Haridradi tail are also prescribed. Triphaladi tail-Oil prepared by Triphala, Yasthimadhu, Bhringraj, Nilkamal, Sariva and Saindhav lavana are prescribed. Haridradi tail-Oil prepared by Haldi, Daruhaldi, Chiraita, Triphala bark of Nimbi and Rakta chandan are prescribed.

Vyanga

(dark patches on the face)- Tribhuvan, Bhangapatra (Cannabis sativa), Vidhara (Argyreia speciosa) and Sesam root (Dalbergia sissoo) or Masur (Lense culinaris) exhibit positive results in dark patches. Application of bark of Arjuna (Terminalia arjuna), Manjistha (Rubia cordifolia),and Adusa (Adhatoda vasica) in equal amount with butter shows good positive result in Vyanga.

Complexion promoting-

 Masur (Lense culinaris) triturated with milk and applied with ghee for enhancing complexion. Kumkumadi tailam also prescribed for the promoting complexion.

 Yauvana Pidika

(pimples/acne)- In pimples application of paste of Jaiphala (Myristica fragrans), Raktacahandan (Ptrerocarpus santalinus), Maricha (Piper nigrum) or of Lodhra (Symplocos racemosa), Dhanyaka (Coriandrum sativum), Vacha (Acorus calamus) or of Safed sarso, Vacha, Lodhra and saindhava or of Semal (Salmalia malabarica) spine with milk.

 Vipadika-

Application of paste of wax, saindhav, ghee, Guda(Jaggery) Guggulu (Commiphora weiti) ,gum of shal (Shorea robusta) and Geru (Haematite) or application of Madanadilepa prepared by Madanphala (Randia spinosa), Wax and Smudra lavana (Sea salt) shows positive result.

Saragadhar Samhita

There are three kinds of lepa viz. dosaghna (pacify the polluted humor), visaghna (pacify the poisonous substance) and varnya (cosmetic application for complexion).

Complexion promoting-Rakta chandana (Ptrerocarpus santalinus) Manjistha(Rubia cordifolia), Lodhra (Symplocos racemosa), kustha (Saussurea lappa), Priyangu (Callicarpa macrophylla) and Masura (Lense culinaris) have complexion promoting properties.

YauvanaPidika

 (pimples/acne)- Ripened leaves of Vata (F. bengalensis), Malati, Rakta chandan (Ptrerocarpus santalinus), Kustha (Saussurea lappa), kaliyaka (Coscinium fenestratum) and Lodhra (Symplocos racemosa) are made into paste and applied externally to remove pimples ,black spot and patches on the face.

 Arumsika-

A paste of bark of Khadira (Acacia catechu), Aristha (Sapindus trifoliatus), Jambu ( Syzygium cumini), Kutaj (Holarrhena antidysentrica) and Saindhav (rock salt) processed in cow’s urine which cures arumsika.

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

It is very clear from the above description that large number of herbs and other naturally obtained raw material have been formulated into cosmetics products and this pure natural cosmetics are without any synthetic chemical they are not only devoid of side effects but also equally effective in comparison to their modern counterparts. The use of bioactive ingredients in cosmetics influence biological functions of skin and provides nutrients necessary for the healthy skin. The vast array of knowledge of medicinal plants mentioned in ayurvedic texts is very helpful in the development of the new cosmetics products for present and future cosmeceuticals industry. The classical texts mentioned in the review are just the tip of the iceberg; apart from them there are several books in Ayurveda, which include broad descriptions about therapeutic effect of Ayurvedic plants in the field of skin care. There are several Nighantus (Lexicons of Ayurveda) containing descriptions about several medicinal plants. There are several books dealing with formulation and pharmaceutics too. Description of several minerals useful in skin care had been registered from the ancient Indian Astrochemical books, description of all of them is beyond the scope of any single review hence further research and review work is welcomed in this particular field.

REFERENCES

1. Mithal B. M., Saha R.N. A Handbook of Cosmetics. Vallabh Prakashan Delhi, 1st edition 2007, Chapter 1 An Introduction, p. 2.
2. Sastry J. L. N. Dravyaguna Vijnana, Chaukhambha Orientalia Varanasi, Volume-I, Chapter- XV Brief History of Dravya guna in Vedas and Samhita, Reprint 2006, p. 399-400.
3. Datta HS, Paramesh R. Trends in aging and skin care: Ayurvedic concepts. J Ayurveda Integr Med 2010 [cited 2013 Jan 6];1:110-3
4. Nema Rajesh Kumar, Rathore Kamal Singh, Dubey Bal Krishna. Textbook of Cosmetics, CBS Publishers & Distributers Delhi, 1st edition 2009,Chapter 27 Herbal Cosmetics, p. 257-258.
5. Charaka. Charaka Samhita Chikitsasthan Volume-III, English Translation by Sharma R.K. & Bhagwandas, Chaukhambha Sanskrit Series Office Varanasi, Chapter –VII Treatment of Kustha , Reprint 2007, p. 319-321.
6. Charaka. Charaka Samhita Sutrasthan Volume-I, English Translation by Sharma R.K. & Bhagwandas, Chaukhambha Sanskrit Series Office Varanasi, Chapter –IV Six Hundred Purgative, Reprint 2007,Verse7, p. 90. Susruta.
7. Susruta Samhita, Chikitsa Sthan translation by Volume-II, English Murthy K.R.Srikantha, Chaukhambha Orientalia Varanasi, Edition 2005, Chapter-20 Kshudra rog chikitsa, Verse 19,20,27,28,33-37, p.194-197
8. Vagbhata. Ashtanga Hridayam edited by Gupta Atridev, Chaukhambha Prakashan Varanasi,Edition 2007, Chapter 22 Gandupadividhi, Verse14-22, p. 133-134.
9. Vagbhata. Ashtanga Samgrah Uttarasthan Volume-III, English Translation by Murthy K.R.Srikantha. Chaukhambha Orientalia Varanasi, Edition 2005, Chapter- 37 Treatment of Minor Diseases, Verse 5-23, p. 321-324. 10.
10. Tripathi Indradev & Tripathi Dayashankar, Yogratanakar, Krishnadas Academy Varanasi,Kshudrarog Chikitsa,Edition 2007, Verse 91,109,122,123,127,134.p. 699-704 111.
11. Sarangadhara. Sarangadhara Samhita, Uttara Khanda, English Translation by Murthy K. R. Srikantha, Chaukhambha Orientalia Varanasi, Reprint 2010, Chapter-11 Lepa,Murdha Taila, Karnapurana Vidhi, Verse-1, 9, 15, 17, p.236-237.
12. Mythrey RC, Nisargi RS. An Insight into Integrative Approach of Ayurveda in Various Fields. Int J Res Ayur Pharm 2016; 7(1):26-29.
13. Barve GM, Mashru M, Jagtap C, Patgiri BJ, Prajapatti PK. Therapeutic potentials of metals in ancient India: A review through Charaka samhita. J Ayur Integ Med 2011; 2(2):55-63.
14. Pandya B. Concepts of Ayurveda in Shrimad Bhagavat Gita: A Review. Int J Ayur Pharm Res 2017; 5(11):28-30.
15. Menon M, Shukla A. Understanding hypertension in the light of Ayurveda. J Ayur Integ Med 2017; 1-6.
16. Trikamji Y. Charaka Samhita of Agnivesha, Sutrasthana, Chapter 1, Verse 53, Fourth edition, New Delhi; Munshiram Manoharlal Publishers Pvt Ltd, 1981:14
17. Gandhe G. Table Manners in Ayurveda. J Ayur Holist Med 2017; 5(2):29-43.
18. Palaniswamy R, Raghunathan P. Comparison of three herbal plants for best free radical scavenging activity. Int J Curr Pharm Res 2017; 9(3):62-64.
19. Palaniswamy R, Veluchamy C. Therapeutic Uses of Spirulina: A Review. Int J Curr Innov Res 2017; 4(1):975-979.
20. David F, Subhash R. Ayurveda, nature's medicine. First edition, New Delhi; Motilal Banarsidass Publishers, 2004:80.
21. Hankey AA. Test of the Systems Analysis Underlying the Scientific Theory of Ayurveda’s Tridosha. J Altern Complem Med 2005; 11:385-90.
22. Patwardhan B, Bodeker G. Ayurvedic genomics: establishing a genetic basis for mind body typologies. J Altern Complem Med 2008; 14:571-576.
23. Valiathan MS. The Legacy of Charaka. Chennai. Orient Longman. 2003; 17.
24. Murthy KRS (translation). Bhava Prakasha of Bhavamisra, Vol I, Dincharyadi Prakarana, Chapter 5, Verse no. 114-117, Reprint edition, Varanasi; Chaukhambha Krishnadas Academy; 2008: 92
25. Trikamaji Y, Sushruta Samhita of Sushruta, Sutrasthana, Chapter 46, Verse no. 449-457, Fifth edition, Varanasi, Chaukhambha Orientalia, 1992:247
26. Joshi K, Ghodke Y, Shintre P. Traditional medicine and genomics. J Ayur Integ Med 2017; 1(1):25-32.
27. Swoboda RE. Prakriti: Your Ayurvedic Constitution. India: New Delhi. Motilal Banarasidass Publishers; 1996.
28. Wani BA, Mandal SK, Godatwar P. Prakriti Analysis and its Clinical Significance. Int J Ayurv Pharma Res 2017; 5(9):86-90.
29. Patwardhan B. Adding life to years with Ayurveda. J Ayur Integ Med 2012; 3(2):55-56.
30. Chauhan A, Semwal DK, Mishra SP, Semwal RB. Ayurvedic research and methodology: Present status and future strategies. Res Methodol Ayur 2015; 36(4): 364-69.
31. Patwardhan B. Ayurveda, evidence based and scientific rigor. J Ayur Integ Med 2010; 1(3):169-170.
32. Manohar PR, Sorokin O, Chacko J, Namppthiri V. An Exploratory clinical study to determine the utility of heat rate variability analysis in the assessment of dosha imbalance. J Ayur Integ Med 2017; 1-5
33. Sreedevi S, Tripathy, RN. Life Style Disease and Ayurveda:An Overview and Prospective. Int J Res Ayur Pharmaco 2017; 8(1):22-26.
34. Trikamji Y. Charaka Samhita of Agnivesha, Vimanasthana, Chapter 1, Verse no. 21, Fourth edition, New Delhi; Munshiram Manoharlal Publishers Pvt Ltd; 1981:235
35. Sharma R.K., Bhagwan Dash, Charak Samhita, Sharirasthana, Vol.II, Chapter5, Verse no. 3,Varanasi; Chaukhamba Sanskrit Series; 2012: 414.
36. Ambika datta S, Susruta Samhita (Uttarardha), Dvitiya Bhaga (Uttaratantra), Chapter 40, Verse no. 163, Varanasi, Chaukhambha Sanskrit Sansthana; 2004: 234.
37. Travis FT, Wallace RK. Dosha brain types: A neural model of individual differences. J Ayur Integ Med 2015; 6(4):280- 285.
38. Misra S. Action research and education in Ayurveda. J Ayur Integ Med 2017; 8:283-284.
39. Dalhana. Edited by Acharya Jadavji Trikamji. Ed. Susruta Samhita. Reprint edition, Varanasi: Chaukhmbha Orientalia; 2014:1-15.
40. Chandra S. Ayurvedic research, wellness and consumer rights. J Ayur Integ Med 2016; 7:6-10.