Formulation And Evaluation of Herbal Hair Conditioner by Using Annona Squamosa Leaves (Custard Apple)

Hair conditioner is a hair care product used after shampooing to improve the hair’s condition. Conditioning aids in protecting and revitalizing your hair. A conditioner refers to a formulation designed to enhance the quality of hair. This product is advantageous for all hair types. It functions by replenishing moisture and smoothing the hair follicle's cuticles. An herbal hair conditioner works to prevent hair breakage, resulting in strong and shiny locks. Formulated with key ingredients such as aloe Vera and mint leaves, this herbal conditioner promotes healthy hair by keeping it clean and smooth. In simple terms, once the shampoo cleanses and eliminates oils, the conditioner adds moisture back into your hair and aids in smoothing your strands for a shiny, soft, and healthy appearance. It’s similar to washing your face and then applying a moisturizer. ^[1] Custard apple (Annona squamosa) leaves are known for their rich phytochemical content, including flavonoids, tannins, alkaloids, phenolic compounds, and saponins. These bioactive constituents contribute to a variety of therapeutic properties such as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and hair growth-promoting effects in the current context, it appears unlikely that herbal hair conditioners, despite their superior performance and safety compared to synthetic alternatives, will gain popularity among consumers. A more progressive strategy for promoting herbal shampoo would involve shifting consumer expectations regarding conditioners, focusing on safety and effectiveness. Manufacturers should take an active part in informing consumers about the possible harmful impacts of synthetic detergents and other chemical additives found in shampoos. ^[2]

Anatomy of hair

The system is integrated, exhibiting distinct chemical and physical characteristics. It comprises a complex structure made up of various morphological elements that function collectively. Hair is primarily composed of keratin, a fibrous protein also present in skin and nails. It develops from the outer layer of the skin (epidermis) during fetal growth, rendering it an epidermal derivative. The process of hair growth initiates in the hair bulb, which is situated at the bottom of the follicle. This region contains actively multiplying cells that generate new hair, which is supplied with nutrients through blood vessels in the dermal papilla. ^[3]

Fig 1: Anatomy Of Hair

The hair shaft of mammals is divided into three main regions:

1. Cuticle

2. Cortex

3. Medulla.

A) Cuticle: The outermost layer, the cuticle, is made up of flat, overlapping cells resembling scales or shingles on a roof.

B) Cortex: Located beneath the cuticle, the cortex forms the thickest part of the hair strand. It is composed of tightly packed keratin proteins and is responsible for the hair’s strength, texture, and color.

C) Medulla: The medulla is the innermost, often hollow layer of the hair shaft. It is more Prominent in thick or coarse hair and may be absent in fine or light-colored hair.

Types of hair conditioner

1. Deep Conditioners/Hair Masks: These are thick and rich in cationic surfactants that bind to hair structure, helping to restore moisture and reduce breakage. They are typically applied for extended periods (30–45 minutes)

2. Leave-In Conditioners: Lightweight and formulated with unsaturated fatty acid chains, these prevent tangling and add smoothness without weighing the hair down. They are especially useful for curly or kinky hair types

3. Rinse-Out Conditioners: The most common type, usually applied after shampooing. They are formulated to complement specific shampoo types

4. Hold Conditioners: Containing cationic polyelectrolyte polymers, these help style hair by holding it in place, similar to light hair gels

5. Cleansing Conditioners: These newer formulations combine amphoteric and cationic surfactants, serving as either a shampoo alternative or a pre-shampoo treatment for damaged or curly hair. ^[4]

Plant profile

MATERIAL AND METHOD

Extraction process (maceration)

1. All plant material should shade dry (coarse powder)

2. Use ethanol: water or water alone depending on desired extract

3. Place the powdered drug in a clean conical flask or maceration jar. Add solvent and close tightly.

4. Stir thoroughly and allow the mixture to stand for 7 days at room temperature, with occasional shaking (at least once daily).

5. After the 7 days filter the mixture and concentrate it.

Formulation of herbal hair conditioner

Formulation procedure

Step -1 (preparation of Aqueous phase)

1. Weigh the required quantities of material

2. Dissolve citric acid and Tragacanth gum in rose water.

3. Add glycerin and aloe Vera gel into the above solution and stir until a uniform mixture is obtained. 

4. Add the plant extract gradually while stirring.

5. Add methyl paraben as a preservative.

Step –2 (Preparation of Oil Phase)

1. Weigh and mix the ingredients

2. Heat oil phase gently to about 60–70°C to ensure proper mixing and activation of the emulsifier (Tween 40).

Step- 3

1. Heat the aqueous phase separately to the same temperature (60–70°C).

2. Slowly add the oil phase into the aqueous phase with continuous stirring using a magnetic stirrer.

3. Continue stirring until the mixture cools down to room temperature. Homogenize the final product for 5–10 minutes for better consistency and smooth texture.

4. Add rose water to adjust fragrance and final volume.

Fig.5 Hair Conditioner

Evaluation of herbal hair conditioner

1. Organoleptic evaluation

Visual inspection methods are used to evaluate the organoleptic properties of herbal hair conditioner. The color, Odor, texture, state etc.

2. PH Test:

Soak the pH strip in the herbal hair conditioner solution and wait for the color change. Determine the pH by comparing the color of the pH strip to the color of chart. ^[11]

PH of hair strand: 3.6 to 5.5

PH of hair conditioner: 3 to 7

3. Dirt dispersion method

Two drops of conditioner were added to a large test tube containing 10 ml of distilled water, one drop of Indian ink was added, and the test tube was capped and shaken 10 times. The amount of ink present in the foam was rated as none, light, medium, or heavy. ^[12]

4. Stability testing:

Store the herbal hair conditioner at 37°C for 6 weeks and observe changes in color and viscosity.

5. Moisturizing time determination:

 Appropriately sized 1 g of hair ball, 20 cm3 size were placed on the surface of 60 ml of various diluted conditioners and the complete sinking time of ball in the conditioner was measured. ^[2]

6. Irritation test

In this test 1-2 ml of the product was applied to the dorsal side of the left hand and observed for 2 hours any sign of redness, irritation, and inflammation.

7. Viscosity

Viscosity is measured by pouring the formulations from one beaker two another and its fluidity and pourability were measured.

RESULT AND DISCUSSION

1. Organoleptic evaluation

Visual inspection methods are used to evaluate the organoleptic properties of herbal gel. The color, odor, texture and state of herbal gel shown in Table

Table no observation of organoleptic properties